WristWatch Magazine - Page 99

The “Gyrolab” bar type balance was first tested on Jaeger’s technological test-bed of the Extreme Lab series in 2007. Two adjustment screws are inset within the bar ends to minimize fluidic resistance and allow for fine timing adjustments. The hair-spring integrates a modified “dog-leg” terminus, keeping the entire hair-spring on a single plane and likely saving the extra clearance space of an overcoil. Magnification really shows how dedicated Jaeger-LeCoultre is to making a perfect timepiece. the Omega’s Co-Axial escapement. After testing, introducing, and refining it, Omega has now integrated George Daniels’ famous assembly into the majority of the watches they produce. Another more recent example may be Ulysse Nardin’s own Suspended Anchor escapement. It has the same potential to claim an iconic status within the brand across types—although it is still in its early stages. Jaeger’s Gyrolab balance and True Second display have the same potential as immediate brand identifiers and a new cornerstone in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history. One thing that many watch buyers do not often consider at the point of sale is serviceability. Given its innovative new mechanism we asked our own master watchmaker and advisory board member, Don Loke, to have a look; and while innovative and very interesting, he points out that the new mechanism eschews over-complication; qualified watchmakers should be comfortable working on it for service and repair. Since the return to favor of mechanical watches in the 1990’s, the staccato “crawl” of the mechanical movement has represented a membership of sorts. At a glance a watch was obviously either mechanical or quartz. However, along with the return of the mechanical watch, an educated electorate is now aware that lesser examples “crawl” in the same space, and collectors have learned to look more closely at the merits of each watch in front of them JJaeger-LeCoultre g mayy veryy well be at the cuspp of a sea change moment, and I’m certain that savvy saavvy watch lovers are sure to be looking closely to see if that JLC you’re yoou’re wearing is crawling along—or along— jumping to the True Second bea at. beat. A view from the bottom of the True Second system reveals the critical star shaped gear that triggers the instantaneous jump of the center-second hand via a release finger. Note the sprung gear near the center wheels that keeps the “play” at an absolute minimum during the snap action of the onesecond jumps. Replacing the cool look of steel with the warmth of 18-karat gold will cost an additional $8,450 as the 18kt pink gold Geophysic True Second retails for $17,500—all else being equal. 2016 201 6 | WRISTWATCH 97