WristWatch Magazine - Page 102

AUDEMARS PIGUET Quantum Calendars It has been nearly forty years since Audemars Piguet introduced their fist wristwatch with a perpetual calendar movement inside. On the following pages we’ll revisit a bit of that history and recall the brand’s mechanical perseverance during the quartz era, but before you turn the page, enjoy a moment reviewing Audemar’s latest Royal Oak to house the perpetual calendar complication. Launched last year in rose and white, this latest Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar arrives in an 18-karat yellow gold case and benefits from the usual impeccable finish AP applies to every aspect of the watch. Polished bevels counterpoint the brushed finishes on the remarkably slim case, while the “tapisserie” dial in Prussian blue evokes a masculine feel and compliments the brighter tones of the yellow gold. Inside the 41 mm case resides and equally well-dressed automatic winding perpetual calendar caliber 5134 visible through apphire back. the large sapphire Gerald Genta’s 1972 design was and remains a fusion of sport, style, and fine watch making with few equals. The Royal Oak has seen dozens of permutations through the years, and back in 1978 this instant classic was to become the platform for AP’s first wristwatch with perpetual calendar caliber 2120/2800. This movement became a staple for the brand that was curating a focused collection during leaner times. Audemars Piguet’s manufacturing capabilities, combined with a private ownership, allowed them to nimbly adapt to the somewhat evanescent (and occasionally gaudy) nature of the 1970’s-80’s well to do collectors without abandoning the “haute” in their horology. Take a moment and enjoy the details of this latest Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and the Caliber 5134 within the new yellow gold case. When you turn the page you’ll be among the first to view the work of Audemars Piguet’s’ own historian Michael Friedman, and their Heritage and Museum Director Sebastien Vivas as they bring you back to the origins of AP’s first perpetual calendars. A remarkably slim movement allows the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to achieve near-perfect proportions of 41mm x 9.5mm and is as easy to wear as it is on the eyes. 100 WRISTWATCH | 2016