WLM Spring / Early Summer 2016 | Page 52

WLM | adventure Next up was a series of sand dunes between I-80 and Oregon Buttes, followed by encountering an enormous elk herd on a sage-covered butte. Following the elk herd, I was treated to antelope herds, and then more horses, each of which I photographed extensively. The Wind River Range was on my list, and I climbed into the southern section, clearing 13,000’ and finding some of the most amazing mountain scenery I had yet seen in the airplane. This statement comes from someone who had just finished flying all 58 peaks over 14,000’ in Colorado with the same airplane, and this just took the cake. After fueling in Pinedale, I wound up in Jackson by way of Hoback Canyon, squeezed on the left by the Wyoming Range and the right by the Gros Ventre Range. Right over Jackson my lens broke, which soured my mood, though I had a backup camera and switched over to it. My cantankerousness over the lens malfunction, coupled with the deteriorating conditions for photography (clouds and haze), conspired to dampen my perspective of the Jackson Hole area as I flew over it. I was undergoing an element of personal struggle at the time, reconciling my fantasies about ski towns in the Rockies with the realities I had just learned about in Colorado. I remember deciding not to move to Wyoming, because Jackson looked the same as the towns in Colorado: “remote, expensive, and filled with tourists.” It would be literally nine months later that I would fly the same airplane within 20 miles of that exact point as I moved it to my new home in Alpine. Life is filled with ironies, even if it is we unto ourselves. I then flew north at 9,500’ over Jackson Hole airport (to avoid the airspace) and got thrown around like a leaf in the breeze by the strong winds raging off of the Tetons. Since moving to Wyoming, I learned that 9,500’ is the worst altitude to fly east of Grand Teton. Nonetheless, I plunged into Yellowstone, learning for the first time that the place is surprisingly flat, devoid of emergency landing locations, and scarily wild. Those of us from the East somehow come to the conclusion that Yellowstone should look like Glacier Bay, Alaska. Seeing the hot springs was beyond words. 50 Wyoming Lifestyle Magazine | Spring 2016 Fuel was West Yellowstone, Montana, followed by a high-speed flight east over the Absarokas, Cody, the Bighorn Basin, and then the Bighorn Range due to strong tailwinds. That was my first experience with the incredible winds that I now know are normal in Yellowstone, especially as they funnel over the range and into Cody, which is like a natural wind tunnel. The Bighorns were a surprise, with a verdantly green eastern slope descending into Buffalo. I spent the night in a tent behind the airplane, off the next morning at 6 AM. West of Devils Tower, enjoying the carpet of yellow flowers over eastern Wyoming, the engine got rough. I fired a text to my wife: “Engine roughness, 24 miles SW of Hulett, WY – will try to make it there.” Recall that I have no radio, so my only hope of being found was a successful landing, walking to a ranch 20 miles away, and not dying of thirst beforehand. The engine kept running thankfully, and as I got nearer to Hulett, I realized there was nothing on the facility directory. No hotel, rental car, mechanic, nothing. The engine still ran, so I made Spearfish, South Dakota, having ended my trip to Wyoming with quite a bit more than a touch of adventure, which would only preview the reality of flying all over the state once I moved there the next spring. How little I knew what I was getting myself into… W L M Garrett Fisher is the author of nine books, having just published his first Wyoming aerial photography book Flying the Star Valley in January 2016. He is in the process of publishing a long list of aerial photography books focused on the Rockies as seen from his antique airplane. Garrett blogs regularly about his aviation adventures at www.garrettfisher.me.