W L
HISPI by Carl Housbey
I know that many Wirral Life readers are frequent visitors to Chef Gary Ushers restaurants , Sticky Walnut near Chester , and Burnt Truffle in Heswall , but I wonder how many of you have ventured out to Didsbury to eat at his third restaurant , Hispi . Luckily for you , I have been several times and will now tell you all about it .
When you arrive at Hispi you will immediately experience that familiar relaxed , almost laid-back atmosphere , that seems to be a signature of Gary ’ s restaurants , where the staff have that amazing ability to provide really friendly service but still remain slick and professional at the same time .
The menu changes regularly , but there are a couple of items that remain constant , such as the freshly baked rye bread with Lincolnshire poacher butter , and the beer battered salt pickles with parsley and tarragon mayo . I suggest you order a plate of each straight away so that you ’ ve something to nibble on whilst reading the menu .
On my last visit , I opted for Burrata with charred carrot , smoked garlic , honey , and puffed rice for my starter . This was an excellent choice as the complex flavours created by charring the carrot combined together with the smoky garlic to offset the cool creaminess of the Burrata , and the puffed rice provided a delightful crunch to each bite .
Mrs Gastro Grazer was in the mood for fish , so she started with cured sea trout , apple , kohlrabi , crème fraiche and fennel pollen , which of course I just had to try , and found that the tart apple and crème fraiche cut through the natural oiliness of the trout to leave my palate refreshed and eager for another
mouthful . Her main course was pan fried sea bream , white chicory and lardo , with a fish head sauce that had an amazing depth of flavour and complemented the sea bream perfectly .
My main course of braised featherblade with truffle and Parmesan chips is one that makes a regular appearance on the menu due to it being a favourite for many people , myself included . The long slow braising makes the meat so tender that it almost falls apart just by looking at it , and the fat and juices melt together to create a wonderfully sticky sauce that leaves you smacking your lips with joy .
I couldn ’ t manage to choose just one dessert , so I went for two of them . The first was the banana loaf with caramel ice cream , as it reminds me of sticky toffee pudding which is one of my all-time favourites , and I was not disappointed , the loaf was moist and fluffy , whilst the sauce was rich and buttery with that sweet saltiness of all good caramels . I just about had enough room to squeeze in the hazelnut praline , with almond meringue and sherry cream but only because the meringue was as light as a feather .
By the time you read this Gary Usher will almost be ready to open his fourth restaurant Wreckfish , in Liverpool . Obviously , I am going to have plan a visit there as soon as possible , and then tell you about it in a forthcoming issue as these are the kinds of sacrifices I make for our readers .
In the meantime , to book a table at Hispi , visit www . hispi . net or telephone 0161 445 3996 .
44 wirrallife . com
W
L
HISPI
by Carl Housbey
I know that many Wirral Life readers are frequent visitors to
Chef Gary Ushers restaurants, Sticky Walnut near Chester, and
Burnt Truffle in Heswall, but I wonder how many of you have
ventured out to Didsbury to eat at his third restaurant, Hispi.
Luckily for you, I have been several times and w �����rFV����P���&�WB�B�v�V���R'&�fRB��7���Rv������VF�FVǒW�W&�V�6P�F�Bf֖Ɩ"&V��VB����7B��B�&6�F��7�W&R�F�B6VV�0�F�&R6�v�GW&R�bv'�( �2&W7FW&�G2�v�W&RF�R7Ffb�fP�F�B����r&�ƗG�F�&�f�FR&V�ǒg&�V�Fǒ6W'f�6R'WB7F����&V���6Ɩ6��B&�fW76����BF�R6�RF��R�F�R�V�R6��vW2&VwV�&ǒ�'WBF�W&R&R6�W�R�b�FV�0�F�B&V���6��7F�B�7V6�2F�Rg&W6�ǒ&�VB'�R'&VBv�F��Ɩ�6���6��&R�6�W"'WGFW"��BF�R&VW"&GFW&VB6�B�6��W0�v�F�'6�W��BF'&v�������7VvvW7B��R�&FW"�FR�`�V6�7G&�v�Bv�6�F�B��^( �fR6��WF���rF��&&�R��v���7@�&VF��rF�R�V�R���ג�7Bf�6�B���FVBf�"'W'&Fv�F�6�'&VB6'&�B��6���VBv&Ɩ2����W���BVffVB&�6Rf�"ג7F'FW"�F��2v0��W�6V��V�B6���6R2F�R6���W�f�f�W'27&VFVB'�6�'&��p�F�R6'&�B6��&��VBF�vWF�W"v�F�F�R6����v&Ɩ2F��fg6W@�F�R6���7&V֖�W72�bF�R'W'&F��BF�RVffVB&�6R&�f�FV@�FVƖv�FgV�7'V�6�F�V6�&�FR��'2v7G&�w&�W"v2��F�R���Bf�"f�6��6�6�R7F'FV@�v�F�7W&VB6VG&�WB��R�����&&��7,:��Rg&�6�R�BfV��V�����V��v��6��b6�W'6R��W7B�BF�G'���Bf�V�BF�BF�P�F'B�R�B7,:��Rg&�6�R7WBF�&�Vv�F�R�GW&���Ɩ�W70��bF�RG&�WBF��VfRג�FR&Vg&W6�VB�BVvW"f�"��F�W �CBv�'&�ƖfR�6�Ц��WF�gV���W"���6�W'6Rv2�g&�VB6V'&V��v��FP�6��6�'��B�&F��v�F�f�6��VB6V6RF�B�B�����p�FWF��bf�f�W"�B6���V�V�FVBF�R6V'&V�W&fV7Fǒ�ג���6�W'6R�b'&�6VBfVF�W&&�FRv�F�G'Vff�R�@�&�W6�6��2�2��RF�B��W2&VwV�"V&�6R��F�R�V�RGVRF��B&V��rff�W&�FRf�"��V��R�ח6V�`���6�VFVB�F�R���r6��r'&�6��r��W2F�R�VB6�FV�FW"F�@��B���7Bf��2'B�W7B'�������rB�B��BF�RfB�B�V�6W0��V�BF�vWF�W"F�7&VFRv��FW&gV�ǒ7F�6��6V6RF�B�VfW0���R6�6���r��W"Ɨ2v�F����ऒ6�V�F�( �B��vRF�6���6R�W7B��RFW76W'B�6��vV�Bf� �Gv��bF�V��F�Rf�'7Bv2F�R&����bv�F�6&�V��6P�7&V��2�B&V֖�G2�R�b7F�6��F�ffVRVFF��rv��6��2��P��bג���F��Rff�W&�FW2��B�v2��BF�6���FVB�F�R��`�v2���7B�Bf�Vfg��v���7BF�R6V6Rv2&�6��B'WGFW'��v�F�F�B7vVWB6�F��W72�b��v��B6&�V�2���W7B&�WB�@�V��Vv�&���F�7VVW�R��F�R��V��WB&Ɩ�R�v�F�����@��W&��wVR�B6�W''�7&V�'WB��ǒ&V6W6RF�R�W&��wVRv0�2Ɩv�B2fVF�W"�'�F�RF��R��R&VBF��2v'�W6�W"v������7B&R&VG�F��V���2f�W'F�&W7FW&�Bw&V6�f�6����ƗfW'�����'f��W6ǒ����v���rF��fR��f�6�BF�W&R26���2�76�&�R��@�F�V�FV����R&�WB�B��f�'F�6�֖�r�77VR2F�W6R&RF�P����G2�b67&�f�6W2���Rf�"�W"&VFW'2ख�F�R�V�F��R�F�&���F&�RB��7��f�6�Bwwr憗7���W@��"FV�W���RcCCR3��b