Wirral Life October 2017 - Page 44

W L HISPI by Carl Housbey I know that many Wirral Life readers are frequent visitors to Chef Gary Ushers restaurants, Sticky Walnut near Chester, and Burnt Truffle in Heswall, but I wonder how many of you have ventured out to Didsbury to eat at his third restaurant, Hispi. Luckily for you, I have been several times and will now tell you all about it. When you arrive at Hispi you will immediately experience that familiar relaxed, almost laid-back atmosphere, that seems to be a signature of Gary’s restaurants, where the staff have that amazing ability to provide really friendly service but still remain slick and professional at the same time. The menu changes regularly, but there are a couple of items that remain constant, such as the freshly baked rye bread with Lincolnshire poacher butter, and the beer battered salt pickles with parsley and tarragon mayo. I suggest you order a plate of each straight away so that you’ve something to nibble on whilst reading the menu. On my last visit, I opted for Burrata with charred carrot, smoked garlic, honey, and puffed rice for my starter. This was an excellent choice as the complex flavours created by charring the carrot combined together with the smoky garlic to offset the cool creaminess of the Burrata, and the puffed rice provided a delightful crunch to each bite. Mrs Gastro Grazer was in the mood for fish, so she started with cured sea trout, apple, kohlrabi, crème fraiche and fennel pollen, which of course I just had to try, and found that the tart apple and crème fraiche cut through the natural oiliness of the trout to leave my palate refreshed and eager for another mouthful. Her main course was pan fried sea bream, white chicory and lardo, with a fish head sauce that had an amazing depth of flavour and complemented the sea bream perfectly. My main course of braised featherblade with truffle and Parmesan chips is one that makes a regular appearance on the menu due to it being a favourite for many people, myself included. The long slow braising makes the meat so tender that it almost falls apart just by looking at it, and the fat and juices melt together to create a wonderfully sticky sauce that leaves you smacking your lips with joy. I couldn’t manage to choose just one dessert, so I went for two of them. The first was the banana loaf with caramel ice cream, as it reminds me of sticky toffee pudding which is one of my all-time favourites, and I was not disappointed, the loaf was moist and fluffy, whilst the sauce was rich and buttery with that sweet saltiness of all good caramels. I just about had enough room to squeeze in the hazelnut praline, with almond meringue and sherry cream but only because the meringue was as light as a feather. By the time you read this Gary Usher will almost be ready to open his fourth restaurant Wreckfish, in Liverpool. Obviously, I am going to have plan a visit there as soon as possible, and then tell you about it in a forthcoming issue as these are the kinds of sacrifices I make for our readers. In the meantime, to book a table at Hispi, visit www.hispi.net or telephone 0161 445 3996. 44 wirrallife.com W L HISPI by Carl Housbey I know that many Wirral Life readers are frequent visitors to Chef Gary Ushers restaurants, Sticky Walnut near Chester, and Burnt Truffle in Heswall, but I wonder how many of you have ventured out to Didsbury to eat at his third restaurant, Hispi. Luckily for you, I have been several times and w rFVP&WBBvVR'&fRB7RvVFFVǒWW&V6PFBf֖Ɩ"&VVB7BB&6F7W&RFB6VV0F&R6vGW&Rbv'( 2&W7FW&G2vW&RFR7FfbfPFBr&ƗGF&fFR&Vǒg&VFǒ6W'f6R'WB7F&V6Ɩ6B&fW76BFR6RFRFRVR6vW2&VwV&ǒ'WBFW&R&R6WRbFV0FB&V67FB7V62FRg&W6ǒ&VB'R'&VBvFƖ66&R6W"'WGFW"BFR&VW"&GFW&VB6B6W0vF'6WBF'&v7VvvW7BR&FW"FR`V67G&vBv6FB^( fR6WFrF&&Rv7@&VFrFRVRג7Bf6BFVBf"'W'&FvF6'&VB6'&B6VBv&Ɩ2WBVffVB&6Rf"ג7F'FW"F2v0W6VVB66R2FR6WffW'27&VFVB'6'&pFR6'&B6&VBFvWFW"vFFR6v&Ɩ2Ffg6W@FR67&V֖W72bFR'W'&FBFRVffVB&6R&fFV@FVƖvFgV7'V6FV6&FR'2v7G&w&W"v2FRBf"f666R7F'FV@vF7W&VB6VG&WBR&&7,:Rg&6RBfVVVv6b6W'6RW7BBFG'BfVBFBFPF'BRB7,:Rg&6R7WBF&VvFRGW&ƖW70bFRG&WBFVfRגFR&Vg&W6VBBVvW"f"FW CBv'&ƖfR6ЦWFgVW"6W'6Rv2g&VB6V'&VvFP66'B&FvFf6VB6V6RFBBpFWFbffW"B6VVFVBFR6V'&VW&fV7Fǒג6W'6Rb'&6VBfVFW&&FRvFG'VffR@&W6622RFBW2&VwV"V&6RFRVRGVRFB&VrffW&FRf"VRח6V`6VFVBFRr6r'&6rW2FRVB6FVFW"F@B7Bf2'BW7B'rBBBFRfBBV6W0VBFvWFW"F7&VFRvFW&gVǒ7F66V6RFBVfW0R66rW"Ɨ2vFऒ6VF( BvRF66RW7BRFW76W'B6vVBf GvbFVFRf'7Bv2FR&bvF6&V6P7&V2B&V֖G2Rb7F6FffVRVFFrv62PbגFRffW&FW2Bv2BF6FVBFR`v27BBfVfgv7BFR6V6Rv2&6B'WGFW'vFFB7vVWB6FW72bvB6&V2W7B&WB@VVv&F7VVWRFRVWB&ƖRvF@W&wVRB6W''7&V'WBǒ&V6W6RFRW&wVRv02ƖvB2fVFW"'FRFRR&VBF2v'W6W"v7B&R&VGFV2fW'F&W7FW&Bw&V6f6ƗfW''fW6ǒvrFfRf6BFW&R26276&R@FVFVR&WBBf'F6֖r77VR2FW6R&RFPG2b67&f6W2Rf"W"&VFW'2खFRVFRF&F&RB7f6Bwwr憗7W@"FVWRcCCR3b