Wild Northerner Magazine Fall 2017 - Page 37

Step 1:

Add the required amount of fuel stabilizer and treatment necessary for fuel left in your tank. To do this follow the instructions given on each product.

Step 2:

Thoroughly flush the engine using the running muffs with clean fresh water. Run your engine on an idle for 5-10 minutes with the cowling off the motor. This not only flushes the motor but also allows the stabilizer and fuel treatment enough time to fully coat the outboard. At the end of the flushing cycle you can spray the fogging agent into the air intake of the motor. Do this until smoke thickens out of your exhaust or the motor stops running.

Step 3:

Let the water completely drain from the engine. To completely drain the engine simply tilt the motor all the way up and then all the way down and repeat 2-3 times to ensure that all water has been removed. Wash any dirt, grease, etc. from the exterior of the engine. 

Step 4:

Finish treating your engine using the fogging agent. Fogging agents come in an aerosol spray can and usually have an application to add onto the can to allow full penetration into the cylinder. First take each spark plug out using a plug wrench, then spray each cylinder for 5-10 seconds or roughly two ounces per cylinder. I personally like to start with my top right cylinder and work my way clockwise to ensure that nothing is missed.

Step 5:

With all the cylinders now fogged, fasten the spark plugs back in each cylinder. After each plug is tightened, disengage the kill switch to the motor and keep your spark plug caps off. Now turn the key or pull your motor over three to five times. This pumps the pistons in the motor, fully coating the inside of the engine with the fogging agent. Replace each spark plug cap, being sure not to cross up any wires.

Step 6:

The final step to winterizing the 2-stroke outboard motor is to drain and change out the lower end oil also known as your gear lube. I highly suggest always changing out your gear lube, especially living in Northern Ontario. This can be the difference between a good spring with no headaches or a very costly one.

To change the gear lube, you are going to need a standard screw driver, an empty pail, new gear lube, and a hand pump. With the motor trimmed all the way down and a bucket under the lower end, unscrew the magnetic drain plug that is located on the bottom side of lower end of the motor (usually driver side). After removing the drain plug inspect the plug for any shards of metal and be sure that the plastic washer is there and in good condition. The plastic washer is a quick easy fix, however if there are any shards of metal on your screw it's time to get your boat in for service. Now, with the lower end oil slowing seeping out, unscrew the vent screw. This will be located just above the drain screw on the same side of the leg casing; again, watch for the plastic washer. Note some outboards will also have a level screw beside the vent screw and will further help the flow of oil on these out boards. Now that the vent screw has been taken out and you have a good flow of oil being drained, inspect the oil as it's coming out of the lower end. Look for milky oil or water coming out of the lower end. If this issue exists, I would recommend changing the seals (plastic washers) on each of the lower end screws (drain, vent, and level) or bring your outboard in for service at a local dealer.

After the gear lube has fully drained, attach the hand pump to the new gear lube and screw the end of the pump into the drain plug hole on the lower end. Pump the oil into the lower end until it begins to seep out of the vent hole above, or if the outboard has it, the level hole. Once it reaches the vent hole, place the vent screw and plastic washer back and snug it up. At this point I like to give two more pumps on my hand pump (to ensure full coverage), then remove the hand pump from the lower end and re-insert the drain screw. Wipe down, properly clean up and dispose of all the used oil and you are ready to store your watercraft.