16
May, 2015
My boat is lined with 12 – 50W LED floodlights that draw a little over 4 amps each at 12V. They are in the same color spectrum as a High Pressure Sodium light around 2,700 Kelvin. I chose LED lighting to give me the option to run my boat silently off of deep cycle batteries if I’m around houses after dark.
To keep noise to a minimum, I also employ a bow mounted electric trolling motor and, for larger lakes, a 4-stroke outboard “kicker” engine. For longer periods of time on the water I use a small inverter style generator and an AC to DC converter
It’s difficult to tackle the entire concept of lighting in just one article. We will explore each of these lighting options in more depth in future issues, including tips and tricks to get the most out of your setup.
Scenario 1: Clear water lakes near populated areas
This is the situation I personally face when guiding in eastern Wisconsin and here’s the setup I maintain:
to keep the lights running.
As mentioned earlier, I prefer a yellow light to a white light, but in clear water they both work well.
Scenario 2: Stained water, heavy weed growth, less populated lakes
For these lakes getting to the fish is critical. The use of an airboat, or a pusher fan, becomes necessary to push through these areas effectively. Since the extra noise of the engines and propeller blades are unavoidable, the use of a generator to support high-intensity lighting, either MH or HPS is a great choice.
Scenario 3: Muddy water
The use of the strongest light available is advisable. HPS lights are the clear winner in that category. However, if trying to sneak up on fish that are shallow enough to see, then warm-colored LEDs still have a place to avoid excessive generator noise.
This chart provides good comparison information relating to the light output, amp draw, and bulb life for common high-power lighting options.
The technology relating to LED lighting is expected to outperform all other light sources in coming years.
A High-Pressure Sodium Light Fixture