Sauerkraut
CUISINE: German
THE BACKSTORY: In Baltimore, we’ve
been eating sauerkraut alongside our
Thanksgiving turkey feast for more than
100 years. It’s tradition to have the tart,
fermented cabbage on the table, thanks
MATTY
to our city’s rich community of Germans.
Around Thanksgiving, you can find
local delis serving up turkey sandwiches
topped with the stuff. And some locals
fashioned way, fermenting the shredded Fish Peppers
cabbage in basement cellars. CUISINE: African American
still prepare their sauerkraut the old-
Coddies
CUISINE: Jewish
THE BACKSTORY: A specialty fish
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Attman’s Deli’s day-after- THE BACKSTORY: An heirloom variety
Thanksgiving special, the of hot pepper that’s thought to have
“sandwich,” coddies are deep-fried Double T, features turkey, cranberry originated in the Caribbean, fish peppers
balls of salt cod and potatoes, served sauce and sauerkraut between slices were historically used in African
between saltine crackers with yellow of pumpernickel. At Gertrude’s, at the American cuisine in the Chesapeake
mustard. Originally sold out of Baltimore Museum of Art, each January Bay region, where cooks blended them
pushcarts by Jewish immigrants at the brings Kraut Fest, when the restaurant’s into the creamy sauces that typically
turn of the last century, coddies grew homemade sauerkraut is available in all topped seafood dishes. The peppers
in popularity, becoming available in forms and flavors—even as “krautini” were grown almost exclusively by black
nearly every candy shop, hot dog stand drinks. Local company Hex Ferments farmers in the mid-Atlantic until they
and drug store until the 1980s. sells its different varieties of kraut lost popularity in the early 1900s. Now,
Recent years have found the snack (plus kimchi, kombucha and other the flavor has been reintroduced to
harder to track down—but it’s making d
fermented Baltimore cuisine, largely thanks to
a comeback. foods) at chef Spike Gjerde, who is devoted to
Belvedere highlighting local flavors on his menus.
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Coddies are served the
traditional way at Mama’s
on the Half Shell in Canton and at
Market year-
ar-
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round.
At Woodberry Kitchen, the
kick of fish pepper is worked
Faidley’s Seafood in Lexington Market. into sauces, mayonnaise and salt; at the
At Dylan’s Oyster Cellar, they’re sister cafe Artifact Coffee, it’s mixed into
prepared with some extra zing thanks lattes for a hint of heat. And the culinary
to the addition of paprika, onion group’s popular Snake Oil hot sauce
powder, mustard powder, garlic and features fish peppers prominently (sold
other spices. at local markets).
Paczki
CUISINE: Polish
THE BACKSTORY: An imported sweet from our Polish
immigrants, this rich jelly-filled doughnut was traditionally
nall
lly
made in an effort to use up butter and eggs before the sacrificial
acrificial
season of Lent. In Baltimore, they still linger in Polish delis
and bakeries alongside other regional specialties like kielbasa
ielbasa
(sausage) and krushchiki (flat, bow-tie cookies).
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Broadway Market, Krakus Deli in Fell’s Point and
d Polish
Treasures in Upper Fell’s Point typically sell paczki year-round;
ound
oun
d ;
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Traditional Polish markets and delis, like Sophia’s
’s Place at
just before Lent they are available at local churches and grocers.
rocers.
B A LT I M O R E . O R G