UNDER THE BANYAN TREE Jan-Jun 2016 | Page 16

EXPLORE TASTE REFLECT CREATE Picture your favourite dish and that furtive first memory sparks a high-speed mini movie in your mind. The preparing, the cooking and the serving of that tasty memory all adds to the flavour of the colourful cinematic experience that fills your brain. It’s not just the taste that colours that happy memory; it’s the warmth of the setting and the conviviality of the meal itself. In many families, that family favourite recipe will be served in the same dish, perhaps cooked in a beloved pan or warmed with spices ground to a fine powder in a pestle and mortar that has been handed down through generations. R I G H T : A monk prepares a large scale lunch in the kitchen of a monastery in Yunnan Province, China U N D E R T H E B A N YA N T R E E At the heart of many of the world’s most favourite dishes there is a trinity of ingredients, a tantalising trio on which the basic flavour of memory is founded, whether that’s in the Caribbean or Vietnam. This basic foundation on which a nation’s savoury cuisine is built is universally known as mirepoix — the French word for a diced mixture of vegetables, which is sautéed to add a full depth of flavour to a dish. In a classic mirepoix these rough cuts come from diced celery, carrots and onions, which when combined with heat and a generous slug of verdantly green olive oil are the very foundations of flavour for a rich heritage of dishes across so many nations. Mirepoix has no specific meaning. Disappointingly it’s not the romantic French for finely chopped treasures or foundations of food but instead was named after the Duc de Mirepoix, by his chef (who remains nameless) in the 1700s. Although this foundation stone of flavoursome depth was certain to have been used years before, it was only around this time that it was given a name. The ratio for a true mirepoix is 2:1:1 of onion, celery and carrots. These vegetable foundations are often referred to as humble beginnings. In Germany suppengrün uses carrot, celeriac and leek while the Italian soffrito starts exactly the same as its French relative, not to be confused with the Spanish sofrito, a heady dice of garlic, onion and tomato. Similarly, most other cuisines feature their own local trinity, which follow the same ratios and add an unmistakable local flavour to the rich cuisine, as you will find all across the Banyan Tree network. PHOTOS: CORBIS; GETTY IMAGES (OPPOSITE) Olfactory memories are the most powerful of all, a sensory bibliography of life’s most unforgettable events — and reminiscences of foreign explorations are no different. The lasting memory of any holiday long after the suntan has faded and the pictures have been downloaded is one of smell. Close your eyes and remember the last time you stepped foot in Thailand and the evocative aromas of basil and lime will come to mind. Think of China and the sticky sweetness of a steaming wok fills the air, edged by an insolent spiciness of white pepper that assails the senses as keenly in your memory as if you were still there. R I G H T: Get the basics right and some of the simplest food is the most delicious. Aromatic clouds rise from a bamboo steamer as a street vendor carefully tends a batch of fragrant dumplings 01/06 2016 China The perennial appeal of Chinese food is that often the simplest dishes are the most delicious. A seemingly thin-looking broth bobbing with dumplings may look like an unappetizing prospect, but take one spoonful and you will be transported to a happy place by its depth of flavour. The delicate seasoning of white pepper and spring onions cuts through the fatty richness of the perfectly flavoured pork dumplings wrapped in a comforting wonton blanket. What makes this simple dish so amazing is its own foundation: the Chinese must-have ingredients of spring onions, garlic and ginger. Gently fry this flavoursome trio in a little oil and add it to just about anything for a quick and tasty meal. Even a simple THE SPICE ROUTE The mouthwatering cuisine of the Middle East is as vibrant and colourful as its vivid panorama. Emirati food is considered to be a heady and aromatic blend of Middle Eastern and Asian flavours, characterised by several base notes of sultry toned spices. The aniseed tang of cardamom, the priceless hue of saffron, sandy turmeric and herbal thyme are usually the four components that provide the foundation of flavour to many E Z\