UAM #90 май/июнь 2016 | Page 129

Detail The tourist season at Solovki is from late May to early September when the number of storms on the White Sea is few. From midMay to late July, one can witness 'white nights’ at the archipelago. Direction: North The monastery hidden from the whole world on remote islands amid the White Sea was founded in the 15th century by Orthodox monks seeking solitude and peace. Today, the Solovetsky Islands still serve the same purpose. Many tourists come here to cleanse their souls. T he history of the Solovetsky Monastery is reflected in a 500 ruble banknote. The banknotes issued before 2010 show the Monastery’s churches topped with simple roofs rather than domes and crosses. The banknote captured an image of the Solovki Special Purpose Camp, one of Gulag’s locations. The sacred land with ancient monastery walls is a chance to embark on a journey to an alternative reality. It takes a couple of hours by plane to reach Solovki from Moscow; a motor ship runs from Belomorsk to the archipelago every day but even now unpredictable weather conditions regularly cause breakdowns in its communication with the main land. During the times of Ivan the Terrible, the archipelago was a mysterious world living by its own rules. The distance to the Solovetsky Islands lost in the far north was measured in weeks of traveling off roads and on the cold sea. The Solovetsky Monastery was founded in the 15th century on the land owned by the Novgorod Republic. The missionaries, Herman and Sabbatius, arrived at the Bolshoy Solovetsky Island in 1429 and built a wooden village. By the end of the 16th century the Monastery grew so big that its territory had to be protected by strong walls with gates and towers. The monks bred fish and grew vegetables (even water melons); since then, the Island has one of the northernmost botanic gardens with many a rare plant. In the beginning of the 20th century, those who arrived at the Solovetsky Monastery were surprised to see a telegraph office, a radio station, and a power station. The powerful stronghold withstood several Swedish attacks. In 1854, the English shot the Monastery with thousands of cannonballs from their steam frigates but withdrew empty-handed after a nine hours’ cannonade. Thick walls were efficient for containing criminals; therefore, rebels, heretics, and conspirators were sent here for decades. The Bolsheviks turned Solovki into a camp for political prisoners. Fortunately, the monastery walls are no longer a prison today. In 1990, the camp officially regained the status of a spiritual center. Today, the Solovetsky Museum Preserve is a peaceful village living on summer ecotourism and extreme tourism. Solovki are worth visiting to feel the island silence, smell the northern seas, and experience the atmosphere of the history. 127