Traverse 12 | Page 98

all this time there still seems to be some resentment. We spent a few days here taking a bus tour around the city encompass- ing the township of Soweto, Apart- heid Museum and Constitution Hill, which were well worth a visit regard- less of what people say. We even decided to jump off the bus in down- town Joburg and have some lunch, though later we met a local lady at the laundromat that told us she never goes downtown at all. Stopping in Johannesburg also gave me a chance to service the bike and purchase a front tyre as I’d dis- covered later in the trip quality tyres would be hard to get in Africa. It was time to leave, we were slowly making our way in a westerly direc- tion towards the Namibian border. A three-day ride across to Upington. Along the way we stopped at a small town for some fuel and lunch, the lady in the café said she was open, but the menu was limited as she was closing early for the day. Apparently, a white farmer had killed a black worker, the funeral was later in the day. Trouble was expected in town. It was up to us if we wanted to stay, we were hungry, we ordered, ate and left promptly. We wanted to stop at Augrabies Falls, said to be one of the best in South Africa. Little rain meant they were a little disappointing. The Orange Rover flows through the area, explaining the acres of citrus orchards and vineyards. Most of the produce exported to America and Europe. As we rode along the landscape changed dramatically. Red soil and camel thorn bush as far as we could see, like the Australian outback. We could spot the odd Gazelle and Springbok grazing on what grass as available. Stopping roadside for a break I spoke to a young lady who said she had to walk a few kilometres to col- lect water as she didn’t have a bore. Her access to water came from the river or the village handpump. She explained it cost $400 for a bore and not many people could afford it. TRAVERSE 98 We finally arrived in Upington the last major town before the Namibian border. South Africa had been great; the weather and roads were fantastic for motorcycle riding and the people were friendly, although I did detect plenty of animosity between the racial groups. The country itself has everything; a great tourism industry and is very self-sufficient, most items in the supermarkets were produced locally. After riding around South Africa for a few months I felt we’d become too comfortable, it was time to move on to the next African country … SD Shane Donkin, and wife Marina, are Mel- bourne (Australia) based world travellers. Together they've travelled outback Australia and are now discovering the magic of Africa. Some of their adventures can be found at allwaystravel.blogspot