Traverse 12 | Page 58

compressor, a gear bearing puller, clutch cables, clutch plates, throttle repair kit, four car aerials, nuts and bolts, four exhaust pipes (yes, four!), fuel line hose, sixteen tyre valves, emery cloth and reflective tape, in- dicator turn lights, a length of plas- tic hose, a book about cruising the French canals, an electrode holder, a set of electrical components, a set of tiny screwdrivers, three bearings with pins and rings, a book about Fidel Castro, and strangely, a padlock pick- er and four packs of tablecloth clips. I took a box of Thornton’s chocolates too. Who doesn’t like chocolate? The baggage allowance for my flight was generous but the combined weight of all this was 23kgs which I could barely carry. I could just manage all Chris’ dream cargo in my backpack. A small holdall with my own requirements balanced me and stopped me from tipping over back- wards on my way to the airport bus. Almost as soon as I’d booked the flight, I learnt President Obama had too! And, it seemed from my con- tact on the island, so had the Rolling Stones who would be giving a free concert whilst I was there. Suddenly everyone wanted to be in Cuba. I knew it was going to be a happy place when the passengers applauded the pilot on touchdown in Havana. The runway seemed smooth enough. I hoped the roads would be similar. “These are what we call Obama roads,” Chris explained on the way from the airport. Freshly tarmacked, smooth roads had been laid on routes he would take during his visit. I learned that there were ‘Obama roads’ and then there were all the others. Potholes to catch the unwary appeared from nowhere just when the road looked clear. The old American cars I’d previously thought were brought out for special occasions were everywhere. There must be many hundreds of them. I gasped and pointed like a fool all the way back to Chris’ gorgeous house. Watching him unpack his treasures was well worth the effort of bringing them. When I’d changed into some cooler clothes, I was introduced to Hector, a white 1986 750cc Chang Jiang M1S. What a head-turner! Chris bought it whilst working in TRAVERSE 58 Beijing and managed to bring it into Cuba. Our first job was to fit the new exhausts so off we went in the steamy heat the next day to the workshop. They did a good job and it was good to see sparks and smell hot metal again. There was time for a swim in