TRAVEL with Kat Winter 2014 | Page 13

Words and photography

by Solange Hando

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In bright simple attire, they took it in turn to celebrate the Beauty of the Land, Gross National Happiness, Peace, Long Life and 100 years of monarchy. There were sacred dances too, Guru Rinpoche and his eight manifestations under a golden umbrella, the Drametsi Drums, the Black Hats ensuring good karma, but most of all, we enjoyed the herders’ dance when men dressed up as yaks pounced around the grounds. Now and then, I must admit, the hypnotic rhythm saw me twirling around, as discreetly as I could, in my little corner of the stadium.

The King watched it all, leaving the Royal Pavilion from time to time to greet the VIPs in their ornate tents and people in the sunny stands. Family members followed suite, ‘chu chu, sit down’, they’d say as we stood to show respect and when I raised my camera in front of the royal cousins, they beckoned with a smile, inviting me to pose with them and their lady in waiting. That’s definitely an auspicious picture, I’ll keep it on my desk to make sure I return.

FUN AND GAMES

When it came to the games on the final day, I was strictly an onlooker. Where else but in Bhutan would you have a pillow fight to celebrate a Coronation? They came in two by two, grown up men hoisted onto a metal frame, hitting each other with a pillow sack, one blue, one red, until the loser fell in a tub of water below. The King was so amused he strode across the ground for a closer look, laughing at every mighty splash and joining the audience in applause. There were martial arts displays and a hugely popular strong man competition which involved lifting boulders, tyres and logs and racing to the finish with a weight of 250 kilos. On the sidelines, my guide was having his own mini-contest, being picked up like a feather, right off the ground, by his friend Sonam. He still looked handsome though, sporting designer sunglasses given by Bruce Parry when he escorted him for BBC Tribes. I was in good company.

Meanwhile the archery was in full swing. This is Bhutan’s national sport, practised by every man in the land, from toddlers with home-made bamboo bows to world-class champions with state-of-the-art equipment. All was done according to tradition, initial prayers and offerings, victory dance and women in colourful kiras lining up at the side, singing to encourage their team or jeering to deter opponents. The royal princes took part, and the King himself who aimed, shot, hopped on one foot and waved his bow like everyone else.

Only the first notes of Tashi Lebey, the Farewell Dance, brought the game to an end as the whole stadium came down on the pitch, swaying and shuffling in ever growing circles to wish everyone ‘Tashi Delek’, long life and good luck.

I caught my last glimpse of His Majesty as he danced in the middle of it all, ‘strikingly handsome’, as said his Prime Minister, and truly the ‘People’s King’.