The Stained Glass Quarterly Fall 2014 | Page 10

PAINTING FOR STAINED GLASS Part Three [Editor’s Note: The following information is condensed from the Painting chapter of the SGAA Reference & Technical Manual, Second Edition. Part II of this series appeared in the Winter 2013 issue of The Stained Glass Quarterly.] deteriorate if exposed to pollutants. However, with the advent of double glazing for numerous permanent installations and free-form independent panels hung indoors, one of the major concerns can be avoided. Their use in these cases offers many unique opportunities. Enamels are a vitreous material, which means they contain ground glass that fuses to the base glass when fired. There are Enamels low-firing enamels that are available in either a transparent or The use of transparent enamels on glass should not be conopaque form. They fire at temperatures between 1050˚F and sidered as a substitute for colored glass but rather as an 1100˚F. A few are better if fired to 1200˚F or 1250˚F, but others enhancement. The colors are not only less intense than most will lose their color at these high temperatures. Gold-based colglass colors, but also enamels do not weather well. They will ors will become more blue at high temperatures. Note: It is important to remember that all glass enamels contain lead. Therefore, normal lead safety precautions should be used. Also these enamels should not be applied to any glass that will be used as a container for food. Enamels sold for surfaces other than glass (a) Tracing Brush (e.g., china, metal, etc.) should not be used, since their coefficient of expansion is not compatible with glass. In time, they can chip or crack. Enamels are available in a wide variety of (b) Matting Brush colors, although the selection is more extensive in opaques than transparents. A very basic transparent palette might include Reusché & Co.’s blue #27-3359, green #26-1676, yellow #23-2255 and carmine #22-891. The only transparent reds that are available contain gold and are called carmine, ruby, or violet. They are all on the purplish side. There is no bright-red transparent enamel, although sometimes a particular firing of (c) Badger Blender carmine will come close. A low range of firing is suggested for these gold colors. The higher they are fired, the more purplish they become. As would be expected, the gold-based colors are expensive. If you are painting with any of the gold (d) Square Stippler colors on float glass (most modern commercial window glass), you need to test the glass first with a short-wave Uv light to determine which is the “float” side. The gold colors of (e) Deerfoot Stippler enamels can give unsatisfactory results if they interact with tin present in the float glass. See Silver Stains. (f) Scrub Some mixing of enamel colors is possible Assorted Brushes for Glass Painting and will yield interesting results, but it is not 10 The Stained Glass Quarterly