THE
P RTAL
July 2018
a centre for trade, population, and
learning. The church at Whithorn
flourished as a centre of pilgrimage.
St Ninian’s shrine became as famous
as it was popular. Robert the Bruce
and James IV were among pilgrims
to Whithorn. This popularity
continued throughout the Middle
Ages.
that was once used as a bakehouse.
In any case it was the crypt above
the east end of the church above.
The cloister has disappeared entirely
from view. No doubt its stones were
among those taken by locals to build
their houses.
Although what remains of the
nave appears to be almost complete,
save for a roof, in fact it is much
altered and has suffered many
“improvements” in the years since
the Reformation and the demise
of the once great Cathedral. It has
been shortened, and the tower fell
down. Yet the south wall is worthy
of note. Here it is possible to trace
developments from the twelfth to
the eighteenth centuries.
In the twelfth century, the church
in Galloway was re-organised and
Whithorn’s bishopric restored,
The Priory came under the rule of
the Premonstratensians. Pilgrims
increased and brought wealth, and
wealth often causes the church
problems.
This was the case in Whithorn.
The church’s lands were gradually
spirited away until the Reformation
in Scotland was finalised in 1560.
The Priory was left a ruin. Local
people used its stone for their houses
and gradually the Priory ceased
to exist, save for the nave which
was used as the, Presbyterian,
Parish Church.
Page 8
Scotland’s oldest Christian Stone
Not far away lies St Ninian’s Chapel.
From this place one can see the
Cumbrian mountains and the Isle
of Man. This small chapel was built
to serve pilgrims on their way to
Whithorn. It is above an ancient
landing-stage which was used
as good anchorage on the coast.
The present building, well ruins
really, dates from the thirteenth
century, but there is evidence of
an earlier building. Following
the banning of pilgrimages by
Parliament the chapel fell, like so
many others, into disuse.
This great Cathedral, Priory
and Parish Church is now but a
shadow of its former self. Ruaridh
Soutar was our flawless guide.
He showed us round and was a
mine of information. If you visit,
(and we hope and pray that you
will) be sure to go to the museum
Remote from almost everything
just by the gate to the site of the
is St Ninian’s Cave. It is on the
Priory. It is well worth a visit as
shore near Burrow Head. It
Ruaridh Soutar our Guide
it has – among other treasurers -
certainly is detached from the
the oldest Christian stone yet found in Scotland.
world. The cave has been partly destroyed by cliff falls,
but tradition has it that it is the place were St Ninian
Although little has survived above ground at retreated from worldly distractions.
Whithorn, excavations have revealed some fascinating
evidence of early Christianity here. With the re-
Excavations in the cave have unearthed a remarkable
establishment of the See of Whithorn in the twelfth amount of cross-slabs dating from the eighth to
century, a new church was built. It is this building, or eleventh centuries. So, we may safely assume it was an
at least the remains of it, that we see today.Even the important Christian site, a holy place. Following the
nave ceased to be used as the Parish Church when Reformation it was used as a store by local fisherman,
the present one was built next to it in the nineteenth but now it has been restored a place of pilgrimage.
century.
The annual Catholic pilgrimage attracts over 2,000
pilgrims, and is held on the last Sunday in August.
At what was the East End of the Cathedral Church,
Visit Historic Scotland’s web site for Whithorn
are the remains of what may well have been the shrine
for more information - www.bit.ly/whit-priory
of St Ninian, together with a much altered building