The Portal Archive July 2012 | Page 18

THE P RTAL July 2012 Page 14 Anglo-Saxon Saints of South London by Harry Schnitker The great London borough of Southwark has a long history, but has always been rather in the shadow of its northern cousins, the Cities of London and Westminster. During the twelfth century, it wast the residence of important clergy and noblemen, inconvenienced by not having a home near the centre of power. In the immediate pre-Reformation period, it had a rather nasty reputation for being the haunt of criminals and ladies of loose conduct. shocking Its ‘stews’ or houses of ill repute were only marginally less awful than the infamous ‘Clink’, the prison where offenders frequently died from illness and starvation. Rather shockingly, most of this happened on land belonging to the Bishop of Winchester, who had a palace where the Tate Modern now stands. the fort of the men from Surrey Alphege the connection is literally nothing but fleeting. a court jester To the south, in what was then open countryside, the lands of Walworth have another fleeting religious connection, being given to Canterbury Cathedral by a court jester of King Edmund, called Hitard. He was going on pilgrimage to Rome, and thought it better to hand over his lands in case he would never return! Again, we are scraping the barrel here. I am in good company here, for this period in the area’s past is severely understudied: Anglo-Saxon Southwark received its first academic monograph only in 2009. This late medieval den of iniquity had rather pious antecedents. Its earliest mention is not until the tenth century. In the Burghal Hidage it is recorded as Suthriganaweorc, the fort of the men from Surrey. It was probably settled as a defensive ‘Burh’ to protect the emerging city of London to its north. Around the year Southwark burned 1000 the first version of the famous London Bridge Most of the churches arose only in the twelfth appeared, increasing the importance of Southwark. century, well after the conquest by the Normans, which was a disaster for Southwark, and which may account St Alphege to Canterbury for the faint traces of the Anglo-Saxon period: William The bridge also brought the first saintly appearance the Conqueror burned Southwark when he failed to in Southwark. This happened in 1023, when the Anglo- capture London Bridge. Saxon Chronicle mentions Southwark or ‘Suthgeworke’ in connection with the translation of the body of St St Olave Alphege to Canterbury. Alphege was Archbishop of Yet it is the Conqueror’s great survey of England, the Canterbury when martyred by Danish invaders in 1012 Domesday Book, that provides some relief. It mentions at Greenwich. This is the first connection of the area with a church of St Olave, now under the foundations of a saint, rather late in comparison with other locations St Olaf ’s house, just east of London Bridge. This was where the Ordinariate is present, and even with St one of several London churches dedicated to the Norwegian Saint. The Sagas tell us that Olaf, fighting Old London Bridge, with river craft and warehouses. against the Danes as a mercenary for the Anglo-Saxon © National Maritime Museum, London King, Ethelred the Unready, pulled down the wooden London Bridge with his boats. Ordinariate in Southwark There is no way of knowing what actually happened, but the presence of so many churches dedicated to the saint in London, including the Southwark one close to the bridge, may suggest an element of truth to the Sagas. And so the Ordinariate in Southwark does have a saint from the Anglo-Saxon period, the great Norwegian King who converted his country to the Faith.