THE
P RTAL
Rome and Assisi Supplement
Page iii
A Tale of two Cities
(or is that three?)
by Suzanne and Shirley Bryant
St Paul’s outside the Walls
Day one is the day we have been waiting for – off to Rome for our Pilgrimage. At Gatwick we bumped
into familiar faces from last year. Arriving in Rome, a whistle stop check in at our hotel and then it’s our first
Mass, at the Church of Santo Spirito. A fantastic start to what would turn out to be a fantastic week.
disappointed not to see any skeletons out of bed, kettle on, teas made and battle is about
Day two: off early for our guided tour of St Peter’s
with Maria our guide. You can’t fail to be impressed
by this beautiful Basilica and the sheer size of it – it is
where it all began with Saint Peter and where his tomb
is the heart. There really is something special about
Saint Peter’s early in the morning. After the tour a nice
walk in the sunshine, a proper Italian coffee and a visit
to one of the many religious shops in the area.
to commence – there is no way we are going to be in
Rome and miss the Holy Father’s last general audience,
so just after 6am we are in the queue. There’s quite a
gang of us and the mood is high. 7.30am and there’s
movement, the security guards turn up to switch
on the x-ray machines. Oh no! Something awful is
going on - our x-ray machine is not working. There
is no way these guards will let us in so it’s every man,
woman and child for themselves. Those Italian women
may be small but they know what elbows are for! Oh
well, when in Rome! We finally make it in and have
a good seat. It was worth the early start. It turns out
to be the most wonderful experience. Sitting in Saint
Peter’s square waiting for Papa was something not to
be missed. The love for him could be felt and I’m not
ashamed to say we wiped more than a few tears away.
standing room only
Day four and yet another early start as we are off
to celebrate Mass in the Cappella Ungherese at Saint
Peter’s with Archbishop Gerhard Müller, prefect of
Inside the Catacomb of Saint Sebastian
the CDF. In the afternoon we visit Saint John Lateran.
The afternoon is spent at the catacombs of Saint Then we pop over the road to Scala Santa where those
Sebastian and I have to say I was a little disappointed of us who are brave enough climb the stairs on their
not to see any skeletons - or maybe that was just knees. Next, it was off to Saint Mary Major. There was
me! Afterwards we ascend into the church above to a Mass taking place and it was standing room only.
celebrate Mass. As if it can’t get any better we are off to Our last dinner in Rome was at the rather nice Polese
the beautiful Basilica of Saint Paul’s Outside the Wall. restaurant and at 8pm sharp (for those of us downstairs)
It is a beautiful time of day, the sun low and lighting up
the front of the Basilica.
Inside, it is a vast open space. There are portraits
of all the Popes -a light is shining on Benedict XVI.
We are sad that in just two days that light will go out.
A prayer at the tomb of Saint Paul was special and
overwhelming. To our surprise we were met by our
former priest, Shaun Richards, who has spent the last
two years studying in Rome. We were lucky to be there
for Vespers; it was surely the sound of angels.
when in Rome!
Day three and at 04.40 the alarm goes off. We spring
At the last General Audience of Pope Benedict XVI