are in groups or sets of 7; some say 13; the truth is, you just
get a feel for them, and know the first few waves in the set are
the biggest and best. It certainly taught me to respect the
power of water.
I bought my first surf board off a neighbor. It was six foot
seven inch Aquanetics surf board, with a girl standing on the
beach next to a palm tree airbrushed on top. I started going to
the beach with friends attempting to surf. Truth is surfing
came kind of natural, if you know what led up to it.
Soon I was surfing a lot, maybe too much. My wet suit wore
circular scab around my neck, my hair got sun bleach blonde
on top, and I was kicked out of my first year of high school (for
not showing up enough). The waves were exceptionally good
that year and I was hooked on surfing. Once I got my driver’s
license, things got back on track. I didn’t have to depend on
getting a ride to the beach anymore. I could surf in the
morning and still get to school on time.
I have a funny memory of my mother saying “you can’t go
surfing, it’s raining out.” I would assure her that the water
would get no wetter than it is now. All the things that went
with surfing are great memories, and I feel like I could go on
telling stories of all the good times forever. Standing on the