The Hong Kong Watch Auction: TWO | Page 96

Cartier

The Tutti Frutti

囊錐露穎 : 卡地亞高級訂製珠寶時計

In the late 1920 ’ s , a time of economic expansion and wide spread growth filled creativity in areas of the arts , literature , architecture and design . With the crash in 1929 and the Great Depression that followed , there existed a rather uncertain era and the luxury jewelry houses and watch manufactures tried to encourage new spending by manufacturing exquisitely decorated objects such as the tutti-frutti bracelet watch . As women sought to expand their social and economic freedom they gained during the war years , a hunger for novelty , luxury and frivolity was widespread and there became a fascination with Egypt and India , which was stimulated by accounts of artists and travellers visiting these regions . The tutti-frutti bracelet watch consists of a mixture of rubies , emeralds , sapphires and diamonds that give so much color and they are often set as undulating vines with craft-gem leaves , flowers and fruits .
0 年代末期社會經濟蓬勃發展 , 藝 、 文學 、 建築 、 設計各文化 領域 處於充滿創造力 � 黃 𑌲 時期 。 1 年kΩ爾 𑌆𐔳�⌘ 發後 市 � 一落千丈 , 珠寶鐘錶廠商為創商機紛紛投入高端精品項目以 刺激經濟 , 適逢當時女性自主意識抬頭及主張社交經濟 � 立 , ッ 媛們對浮誇豪kΩ� 新穎設計趨之若鶩 , 此枚卡地亞 7XWWL ) UXWWL 水 果錦囊珠寶腕錶正是最佳範例 。 7XWWL ) UXWWL 水果錦囊珠寶系列靈 感源自於品牌後代傳人多次遊訪埃及和印度 , 在旅行中受 �� 異 國文化所啟發 。 富藝斯是次呈 ‘ � 卡地亞水果錦囊珠寶腕錶 , 雕 有花葉紋飾 � 紅寶石 、 祖母錄 、 藍寶石搭配鑽石 , 鑲嵌出豐富多 彩 � 視覺效果 , 難 � 一 。
Cartier ’ s expertise in ‘ Tutti Frutti ’ jewels began in 1901 when Queen Alexandra commissioned Pierre Cartier to create a necklace inspired by the magnificent jewels of Southern Asia . Ten years later , Jacque Cartier embarked on a voyage to India that would alter the course of jewelry in the Western world . There , Cartier sought the traditional expertise of master craftsmen in carving rubies , sapphires and emeralds into leaf designs and cabochon berry shapes . Gemstones , especially emeralds , are notoriously difficult to carve due to their delicate nature . Such techniques had not been used in Europe before , and Cartier incorporated them into their repertoire .
While the term ‘ Tutti Frutti ’ was only coined in the 1970s , Mughal-inspired designs from the 1930s onwards were an instant hit in Europe and the Americas , beloved by socialites and the elite . Among famous clientele was Daisy Fellowes , the Singer machine heiress who particularly loved ' Tutti Frutti ' style of jewelry . A particularly stunning and historically important piece she commissioned is the ‘ Hindou ’ necklace that Cartier created in 1936 . The necklace is composed of graduating layers of carved rubies , sapphires , emeralds and cabriolet sapphires on the fringe of the necklace ( pictured on the next page ). Later sold at auction in 1991 , the necklace achieved the highest price for any Cartier jewel offered at the time . Indeed , it was Cartier who bought the necklace back for $ 2,655,172 USD . Cartier ' s fascination with Indian jewels was not merely one-sided . The Maharajas and Maharanis were also enamored by the East-meets-West style , and commissioned Cartier to create ' Tutti Frutti ' necklace sets , sautoirs , pins and other pieces for their vast collections .
Cartier is very proud of its illustrious history , and from time to time , will dig into its archives for inspiration . The 150th anniversary was such an occasion . The present watch is a modern day interpretation of the iconic ‘ Tutti Frutti ’ design . Set with carved rubies , emeralds , sapphires and brilliant diamonds , the bracelet is also studded with cabochon rubies that appear as berries on a winding stem . This design pays homage to the historically important pieces within the jeweler ’ s archive . The bracelet watch also features a unique concealed dial , set with baguette diamonds , tallow-cut ruby and emerald cabochons which provide an Art Deco aesthetic . Underneath lies a mother-of-pearl dial .
101 年英國王后亞歷山 � 拉訂製了一條帶有南亞𠙩情 � 瑰麗珠 寶項鏈後 , 卡地亞開始專注水果錦囊珠寶系列發展 。 111 年 , 卡地亞創辦人之子雅克卡地亞 , 在印度發現當地將紅寶石 、 藍寶 石和祖母錄切割成梨形 , 再於寶石上面雕刻圖案和葉紋 � 傳統寶 石雕刻工藝 , 這是當時西 ➝ 珠寶工藝從未 過 � 。 卡地亞匯集印 度傳統工藝和西 ➝ 珠寶技法 , 而這場足以改變西 ➝ 珠寶文化 � 印 度之旅 , 成就卡地亞歷史上燦爛輝 ‎�𐤗‏ 一頁 。
雖然 7XWWL ) UXWWL 一 始於 0 年代 , 但 0 年代開始印度莫臥兒𠙩 ⒙ 已經席捲歐美 , 深受各 𑌣ッ𒂙 及精英喜愛 。 ッ媛黛西 ˙ 法洛斯 - 勝家縫紉機繼承人 , 尤其喜愛卡地亞水果錦囊系列珠寶 。 11 年卡地亞以 萬 1 美元天價 , 𐤨‏拍 黛西 1 年所訂製 � “+ LQGRX ” 項鏈 ( 下圖 ), 這價格 ⒔ 越當時所有 � 卡地亞珠寶 定價 。 項鏈以滿是水果和棕櫚葉雕飾 �𐕘 面和綾紋圓珠 、 水 � 形 寶石 、 葉片紋飾 � 紅寶石 、 祖母綠和鑲於邊緣 �𒂙 蘇設計藍寶 石 , 這件經典 � 瑰麗之作現已是品牌 � 典藏珍品 。 卡地亞印度珠 寶 � 迷人魔力無遠弗屆 , 印度邦主亦傾心於這個美麗 � 中西邂 逅 , 訂製了為 � 可觀 � 一系列卡地亞水果錦囊珠寶 。
卡地亞 ➧ 常自豪水果錦囊 �➧ 凡成就 , 並時常從中汲取靈感 , 卡 地亞於 1 年為慶祝品牌 10 周年 , 製作 � 一無二 � 復刻版水果 錦囊腕錶 。 這件珍品鑲滿水果和棕櫚葉雕紋紅寶石 、 祖母綠 、 藍 寶石和タ亮式切割鑽石 , 錦簇繁盛琳瑯滿目 ; 隱藏式錶盤設計 , 珠 母面盤上 ➝ 錶蓋綴滿 ➝ 鑽 、 弧形切割紅寶石和半圓弧面祖母 綠 , 向品牌代表作致敬之際更註下完美 釋 。
富藝斯 ➧ 常榮幸呈 ‘ 此件融合 𑌳 精粹 � 珍稀當代傑作 , 設計高 貴典雅 , 歷久彌珍 , 藏家不容錯過 。
This unique piece was specially designed for Cartier ’ s 150th anniversary in 1997 , which is confirmed by the No . 1 / 1 engraving on the case back , accompanying accessories and book . To our knowledge , no comparable contemporary bracelet watch has ever appeared at auction before , no less by Cartier . We are thrilled and honored to offer this 20th century masterpiece that was created with the inspiration of the magnificent Tutti-frutti .