The Good Life France Magazine January/February 2015 | Page 52

After the drawing of lots, the ‘lucky’ ones would dash off to buy rosettes to frame their triumphant number on their hat, with coloured ribbons. Green, emblem of hope, and signature colour of Villefranche–Sur-Saône, was the favoured hue. The rejects, humiliated and ostracized, bore black ribbons, colour of grief and sadness. J.M. Simon’s fate is recorded in the Villefranche–Sur-Saône museum in his own words:

“I was a conscript for the class of 1891. I drew number 27, an unlucky number. Twenty five of us lined up for the review council. One comrade who had limped from birth and another poor worker with tuberculosis were immediately exonerated. My chest cage measured 97cm (36 inches), and requirements stated 98 cm so I too, was rejected. We were scorned and despised by our peers, dishonoured and excluded from festivities.”

Villefranche–Sur–Saône classes, exclusively for men, celebrate on the last weekend in January. Conscripts visit the sick and handicapped on the Friday, deriving a small lesson in humility from this brief instant given to other humans. Concepts of companionship in life and impending death and promises of loyalty to their classe are fortified and renewed.

The festivities continue on Saturday, with the supreme celebration on Sunday. In lines of six, or fewer as the older classes join ancestors in the cemetery, arms linked, the cavalry zig-zags down the Rue Nationale, arms linked, in a wave sequence.

All are slickly coifed, armoured in tails, pristine shirts, black bow ties and opera hats streaming different coloured ribbons for each year. Armed with bouquets of yellow mimosas they bellow out traditional lyrics, defying false notes,

accompanied by artillery of trumpets, trombones and flutes and ranks of cheering family and friends.

Shiny, vintage cars swathed in flowers wear gigantic opera hats resembling steamboat funnels. The elderly are resplendent in stately, horse-drawn carriages and laughter and shouting dispel the winter gloom as the squadron regroups at the end of the main street for the feast.

Brotherhood Festivities

Villefranche–Sur-Saône is unique for its style, organization and duration but other regions – Rhône, Ain, Isère, Vendée and Alsace – claim their share of the gateau, with festivities varying from village to village.

A committee of about 10 people from the same classe, or birth year, is formed to prepare throughout the year. “We raise money selling brioches, holding bridge and tarot card competitions, bingo and pétanque games,” a member explained. Meetings are held to decide on the costume. “We spend the money on a trip, a meal in a restaurant or a visit somewhere”.