If you only have time to go to one restaurant in Montpellier, then make it Le Grillardin in the little Place de Chappelle Neuve. In a shady little square surrounded by beautiful old buildings with pastel blue shutters of a shade you yearn to capture but seems to be peculiarly French, faded over decades, perhaps centuries. It’s a divine setting which nourishes as much as the delicious dishes. Tables spill onto the square, servers nip about explaining (in English if required) what’s on the menu. “Salmon is our starter of the day” I was told “smoked in our own chimney” with pride. Tables fill quickly here so book in advance or get there for 7.30 when service starts. It’s loved by the locals and no wonder…
Chez Boris is famous in Montpellier for its meaty menu, if steak’s your thing you're going to love it here - and the crispy home cooked chips. The servers are friendly and speak English and it’s fun to watch them dash across the road with trays of food and drinks to the terraces on the other side under Plane trees.
Burger and Blanquette is a burger bar with panache and the most delicious salads ever. Eat inside the cool restaurant or on the esplanade outside under shade and watching the world go by. Seriously lush.
Head to the contemporary art centre La Panacée for Sunday brunch, you need to be there by 11.am as there’s no reservation system but for about 18 euros you’ll get a great menu. The locals love this place and for a true taste of Montpellier – it’s perfect. Stop for a cooling chilled tea at the lovely Citron Salon de Thé.
Cool bars
Cafe Joseph has been going for nearly 3 decades and makes for a vibrant night out, good music and dance floor - and it's not too young.
Le Glougou (which means glug glug) 27 rue du Pila St Gély – great food and great atmosphere, there are big wooden tables that promote friendly chitchat and you can buy wine by the glass, great for a nightcap.
Where to eat in the Old Town