The Good Life France Magazine Autumn 2017 | Page 107

"I always use rascasse, grondin (sea robin), congre (conger) and saint-pierre (John Dory or Peter’s Fish),” he added. “Look at the spot on the side of the saint-pierre, we believe it is the thumb print of St. Peter himself, the great fisherman.”

Pascal went on to explain that soupe de poisson should be well seasoned. He uses at least a dozen herbs and spices, with his favorite being a mix of five different freshly ground peppers.

He referred to his well-thumbed copy of La Cuisinière Provençale, the bible of Provençal cooking. “I always use this,” he said, “to respect our traditions.”

“When all the ingredients for the soupe are cooked”, he continued, “you must grind them by hand. Never use a blender.”

“Why not?” I asked.

“Because it will EXPLODE. I know from experience.” Pascal pointed to the faint saffron stains still visible on his white kitchen walls. He explained that putting hot liquid in a blender, then whirling it around at high speed, increases the pressure and can lead to disaster.

Now it was time to cook the fish. Pascal turned up the gas burner until the soupe came to a boil, then put in the fish and turned down the flame. “This is the secret to cooking the fish properly,” he said. “If you don’t lower the temperature you will overcook the fish.”

“It’s also where the name of the dish comes from,” he continued. “You bring it to a boil (bouiller in French), then lower (baisser) the temperature.” So bouiller + baisser = bouillabaisse.

A few minutes later the fish was ready and we sat down to our first course. We spread rouille on the toasts and floated them in our big bowls of soupe, making little islands of garlicky deliciousness.

“Not like the frozen stuff they serve in restaurants, eh?” asked Pascal with a sly grin. No, not at all - it was so good I had seconds.

Then we had the fish and potatoes with a bit more soupe sprinkled on top. It was the food of the gods.

As we said our goodbyes that night, Pascal told us, “Bouillabaisse teaches us Mediterranean history - through the dish we learn of the diversity of fish and of spices and of our traditions. Every time I prepare it, it is a great moment for me to share it with family and close friends.”

A great moment, indeed.

Keith writes at: keithvansickle.com

Bottom left: Rascasse; above fishermen at Marseille