The Cork --- An English Cut Publication Zero Issue | Page 82

“ The suit is a uniform and its rules have evolved
over the last 200 years from the original template
based on military, court, legal and ecclesiastical
dress — the dress of authority and power ”

commercial centres of the world, by which I

Saga, John Galsworthy's monumental fiction-

has travelled on a commuter train. Normally,

— is the involvement. It is no longer just a suit

So, what is the problem for guys with

of craftsmen for whom their integrity is the

mean stationmasters to vets; insurance collec-

al examination of an Edwardian upper middle

it is worn with black shoes, white shirt, and —

(or jacket or whatever), chosen in 20 minutes

money and the desire for bespoke? Why don't

most valuable thing in their lives. Start with

tors to doctors. It consisted of jacket, trousers

class family, we are introduced to a young,

unless you are a politician visiting a deprived

from a rack of almost identical styles. It is

they go for it? Why do they often feel safer

getting to know the cloth. You'll be amazed

and a waistcoat. For a man to come out of his

bohemian architect called Philip Bosinney,

or working class area — a tie. It is a uniform

yours. Your garment. And it is not the same

and more at ease with a ready-to-wear item

at the variety. Run it through your hands.

bedroom or dressing room without the last

who shocked the entire Forsyte family by

and its rules have evolved over the last 200

as anyone else's because you helped to create

from an Italian designer who will charge a lot

Feel the softness. Then feel the toughness.

item was a social solecism not even accepted

wearing a hat described by one of them as “a

years from the original template based

it. And the creative co-operation between

and make everybody look the same. To me,

Notice the subtlety of the fabric — the amaz-

at the family breakfast table — as, in those

soft grey hat, not even a new one — a dusty

on military, court, legal and ecclesiastical

you and the men who cut, sew, press and do

in these days of individuality in which rich

ing number of colours in a tweed; the sheen

days, even relatively poor families could

thing with a shapeless crown” — proof that

dress — the dress of authority and power.

all the other things that make an individually

young couples spend a fortune on a modern

of a fine wosted. Then talk cut and style,

afford at least one servant, it would be a

he was a rogue, as he turned out to be.

But one thing remains constant and that

tailored garment so empowering is intense

craftsman-made desk or di ning table rather

weight, lining, buttons — all the things that

social solecism that would have been seen as

There were rules about every aspect of

is that even in a world of casual dress (what

and rewarding. The finished garment, some

than paying less for its 18th century equiva-

will build your garment to reflect you and

a blow to the employer's responsibility to 'set

dress throughout the 19th and 20th centu-

young man does not have jeans, trainers,

imagine is old fashioned and stiff, not modern,

lent, it seems bizarre that they don't want that

your individuality.

a good example' to the 'lower orders'.

ries. It was only in the 'Swinging 60s' that

sweats, t-shirts and a combat jacket as a ba-

not cool. They are as wrong as someone who

uniqueness in the most personal thing of all,
which is the clothes on their back.

When I see our politicians hoping to cur-

things relaxed, leaving us with how we dress

sis for his wardrobe, as indeed many older

says a Bentley isn't cool. Try driving one,

ry our voting favours by appearing in public

today — not according to rules (there are few

ones do?) the well-tailored suit is seen as an

is my answer to that.

without tie or jacket, I wonder what Glad-

of those left now) — but according to the at-

essential. And despite what our politicians

stone — that stern old stickler for the propri-

titudes of the particular tribe we all belong

etaries — or Disraeli — the only true political

to, no matter how loosely we interpret them

peacock in the history of Parliament — would
have to say about power dressing today.

Then, having taken the trouble to get to
know something about tailoring, you can

How can this be loosened up? After all, if

begin to question the rules. Why should a

Of course, traditions must be preserved,

designers have their way everything in male

light grey flannel not be considered suitable

and public figures think, it always looks its

but that does not mean that a handmade suit

dress is now up for grabs. The next five years

for city wear when electric blue is? Why is it

best with a shirt and tie, even if the waistcoat

for today will look the same as one made in

will see a revolution. Menswear will have real

not considered right to wear a very fine tweed

in the universal search for clothing that con-

is temporarily out of favour. And it pays the

the 1930s — or even the 80s. Tastes rarely

fashion status, as it did in the past. And men

suit in the boardroom? We know the answers.

fers a sense of youth to the wearer. Although

best dividends if it has been handmade. That

change, in my opinion, but social or creative

will want to make themselves look more indi-

Tradition. And we want to keep that — but

To 'dress down' was seen as an act of

tweed suits are bought and worn by all age

does not necessarily mean a trip to Savile

moves certainly do although always with-

vidual. But how?

not mindlessly. We can adapt and improve

subversion in the days when most dress was

groups, it is the town suit that figures in most

Row, although for those who can afford the

in a broad template. Does Tom Ford look

This is my suggestion. For me, the most

men's tailoring, secure in the knowledge that

proof of social status. The mantra was simple:

young men’s wardrobes — if a suit figures at

prices that a hand cut and crafted suit, made

old fashioned in an Anderson & Sheppard

wondrous thing about men's tailoring is the

the man — or, I am pleased to say, increas-

it was the privilege of the gentleman to lead,

all. Clearly, it is not well named as a city suit;

to your exact measurements, commands there

tuxedo? Of course not, because he knows

fabric and its huge variety. To young guys,

ingly the woman — who cuts our cloth the

and the obligation of the middle classes was to

the number of men who work in the City is

is nothing that bestows more assurance and

how to talk to men who work with fine cloth

I say get into training now. Be fit and ready

way we want to wear it will help us learn

dress like everybody else who wielded power,

small, but millions of men put on a formal

feels more 'right', in my view.

and how to come to a mutual agreement

for the coming revolution. Go to a tailor.

whilst making sure we do not throw out the

in town or country. To do otherwise unsettled

suit every day — usually in a shade of grey or

But the great thing about having clothes

on how a suit will finally be. And who is

He won't bite or try to take advantage of

baby with the bathwater. Go for it! You have

society and bought insecurity. In The Forsyte

dark blue — as is evidenced by anyone who

made especially for you — and to your wishes

cooler than Tom Ford?

you. He is a member of a very select group

nothing to lose but your inhibitions.

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THE CORK

THE CORK

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