sprawling mass. At the top, kneedeep virgin snow, relatively few
people and empty slopes provide
almost surreal scenes in contrast
to the simmering city below.
By dusk, at the base of the mountain range in upscale Zafraniyeh
sits a cool crisp oasis in the
foothills of the Alborz mountains.
Meaning ‘gateway to the mountains’ in Persian, Darband is an
idyllic escape from city life and
insider’s spot to watch young
trendy Tehranis socialise. The
mini-Amalfi Coast is fringed by
streams and winding pathways
bordered by colourful, canopied
restaurants carved through the
hillside. Groups of Iranians gather
to smoke waterpipe (flavoured
tobacco) sitting cross-legged
on low ‘Takht’ throne seats with
cushions and carpet, tucking into
kebabs and tea. This is the ‘local’
I had come to Iran to experience. Thus begins the shedding
of every preconception I ever
had of this eclectic nation. For
a sumptuous gourmet meal,
Ananda restaurant in Pasdaran
is a hidden enclave. The garden
courtyard resembles a French
countryside retreat and I can’t
believe I’m in Iran.
Northern histories
A 2-day drive via Takab’s sacred
UNESCO site ‘Takht e-Soleiman’
leads to Hamadan, the summer
capital of the Achaemenid
Kings from 5th to 7th century
BC. Although the city escapes
summer heat, winters are bitterly
cold. This is a vital stop for
ancient tombs and inscriptions,
416
namely Ganjnameh, engraved on
the mountain facade by Darius
I and his son, Xerxes. A major
world-famous Jewish pilgrimage
site lies in the city; tombs of
Esther and Mordecai. Knock on
the door for the attention of the
delightful Rabbi, who shows
visitors around. Most striking
in Hamadan is the dominant
focal Tomb of Avicenna, Iran’s
celebrated philosopher, scientist
and physician, whose medical
prescriptions are still used in
medical universities globally. The
tall metal structure shoots into
the sky against a backdrop of
snow-encrusted mountains.
Beautifully-preserved rock
carvings and inscriptions are a
rare delight at Tagh e-Bostan.
Sheltered in a grotto, the series
of royal hunting scenes depict
the Sassanian era around 600AD.
The most dramatic portrait is
perfectly preserved and shows
the ruler mounted on his
favourite horse.
Riverside retreat
in Dezful
Dezful city is a welcome
retreat from the dry dusty
driving. Straddling the river, a
bridge dating back to 300BC
intersperses ancient water
mills, which are a mechanical
feat for their time. Dezful itself
is one of the most important
archaeological sites in the world,
with discoveries dating from the
past 8000 years. I listen, as the
natives speak one of the most
archaic of Persian dialects. It’s
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