for the comparatively tiny island. If your stay
coincides with Sunday morning, head over
to hear the gospel choir, whose acoustics
resound through the early 19th century
building. It’s great fun exploring in this way,
stopping off at spots of fancy, wandering into
villages, markets and buying a drink at the
local ‘Superette,’ a dusty dark warehouse of
shelves, outside which villagers convene to
mingle. Malawi here, on Lake Malawi, is blissfully rustic and unchanged. I take my drink and
wander to the nearest fishing beach, sipping
whilst watching colourful fishing boats come
into shore from Mozambique.
Head for the hills Huntingdon House Tea
Estate
For a completely contrasting face of Malawi,
head inland. I fly back to capital, Lilongwe
and opt for the 5-hour car drive via the old
commercial capital, Blantyre. The Thyolo
district is at the heart of Malawi's tea
producing region, replete with waves of
immaculately cultivated, emerald green
plantations and some of the oldest estates
in the country. Here, Huntingdon House is
a 10,000 acre institution. The Satemwa tea
estate has been owned and managed by
several generations of the Cathcart Kay family,
growing 890 hectares of export quality tea,
predominantly to Europe. The distinct colonial
ambiance of the bygone era is magical. The
grand old colonial house features just 5
classic rooms, making a stay here a privileged
occasion, in and amidst heritage.
Sunsets are astounding from the idyllic hilltop
picnic location high up a mountain with views
of Mt Mulanje to the southeast, and the Shire
River to the west.
I amble along plantation treks, head out with
a guide mountain biking and, of course, taste
some tea and coffee.
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Keep it local
Where possible, I usually book trips and
arrange itineraries with the local tour
operator, which often keeps costs down
and is invaluable source of on-the-ground
information. Often, agents based in home
countries can’t offer the level of knowledge or
first-hand information that the local ones do.
In Malawi, Ulendo Travel is a well-established
and trusted tour operator. Their consultants
tailor a detailed itinerary, matching it to my
timeline and budget, arrange transfers and
give me reliable advise on accommodation. It’s
a green light.
4. ZAMBIA
Luxury of intimacy
For a safari minus the crowds, look no
further than Zambia. This is for luxury-lovers
seeking an authentic and alternative African
experience, including walking, boat and even
small plane safaris, all with the ultimate luxury
of all, few or no other tourists. The result is
a handful of spectacular lodges catering to
an exclusively discerning upmarket traveller.
Optimise a safari with a visit to wonder of the
world, Victoria Falls.
Zambia and Zimbabwe both straddle the
Zambezi River, with just metres between them
in parts. The culmination is thunderous Victoria
Falls, which can be appreciated from both
countries. I head to Livingstone, to stay riverside and take the ‘Flight of Angels’ helicopter
tour over the Falls, a memory of sheer awe.
Victoria Falls ‘flight
of angels’
My base is Tongabezi Lodge, which features
breathtaking sprawling open-faced suites.
The equivalent penthouse suite, ‘Treehouse’
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