darkens outside, the stars appear. On such a
cold crisp evening, the quaint cosy sauna feels
extra-toasty. A tiny little glowing light just
sheds visibility over the lake. The romance of
Hertelendy is unparalleled.
Walking back to the chateau, I pass an outdoor
pool pavilion and oversized chessboard. By the
kitchens is a slip-door leading straight into the
basement spa. Here, I’m treated to the steam
room before indulging in a holistic massage
that rounds off a blissful day.
Country Pursuits
Hertelendy Castle is therapy. It’s soothing for
the soul, awakening a reconnection to nature.
In this spot, I re-find my own centre of gravity,
through the earthiness, homeliness and
natural environment. For those seeking a true
country retreat, Hertelendy is very special in
its country pursuits. Archery, shooting, horse
riding, horse carriage rides, hot air balloon,
Cessna plane rides, gourmet restaurant and
grand grounds just enhance a serene spot, that
I yearn to retain as my secret sanctuary.
Next morning, I bask in the balmy Indian
summer sunshine, so unusual for late October.
Breakfast is served on the outdoor porch
overlooking the grounds. The temperature is
in the high teens, perfect to luxuriate outdoors
among the auburn strewn leaves. In this
sunshine, the pool is shimmering and looks
rather inviting. But I have bigger plans for my
day. I’m meeting ‘Chippy’ the horse-riding
resident expert, for a session with ‘Liberty.’
As soon as I meet my horse, I can tell she’s
feisty – well, they pegged me down to a tee!
Liberty is strong, powerful and graceful. She’s
a deep sparkling chestnut colour, marvellously
groomed and highly intelligent. We take some
practice sessions in lunge. Chippy is a highly
skilled in-house trainer. He manages to instil
in me a confidence that’s staggering as, within
days, we’re off on cross-country jaunts, parttrotting and part-galloping through vast open
330
fields. On an early morning ride, we spot deer
in the woods whilst horseback. It’s a dream,
really. We trot back each day through the
endless apple orchards, picking and munching
on an apple as we go, feeding some to Liberty,
who wholly approves. The orchard is in full
bloom in late autumn and the juiciest freshest
apples make a stunning visual and sensory
experience, producing the sweetest aromas.
Riding is a highlight of my time at Hertelendy.
The stables are home to 15 horses and several
ponies, and even a resident black cat, who
befriends them all.
Cycle Neighbouring Villages
My afternoons are spent bicycling outside
the grounds. This is where I realise that
the surroundings are a stark contrast.
Neighbouring villages, Segesd and Kutas, are
bleak and raw. The distinct poverty is clear.
People are subsistence living as a means of
life with agriculture the predominant form
of work. Modest houses have no alarms but
do have guard dogs. They’re everywhere and
resound a chorus of barks along an entire
street as I