out onto the pedestrian street. And from here,
it’s a privileged stroll past the eight-pronged
‘Oktogon’ roundabout along a UNESCO World
Heritage boulevard. I notice elegantly dressed
couples walking their preened pooches along
the wide tree-lined boulevard, lined by stunning mansions and private palaces, many of
which are foreign embassies.
BEST MUSEUM
One stop worth noting is the House of Terror
museum. It’s a memorial to those fallen
under the dictatorship. I recognise it instantly
from the rows of candles and photographs
outside. Now, the road opens up into a vast
wide piazza, Heroes Square, dominated by the
statues of freedom.
WHERE TO STAY
Corinthia Hotel
This is one of the grandest and most historical
buildings in the city, located on a major
shopping street and perfectly positioned
for walking explorations. My signature suite,
Bartok, is named after the famous Hungarian
composer Bela Bartok, and boasts uninterrupted views across the domes and rooftops
of the city. With a huge separate living room,
dining room and kitchen, this is as plush as it
gets with meticulous design in the city.
My marble bathroom features bewildering
high-tech appliances, such as a remote control
for my bathtub - functions include self-fill,
temperature regulation and Jacuzzi bubbles.
Suite-dwellers benefit from access to the executive lounge, in which drinks and snacks are
served complimentary throughout the day. I’m
pleased to have a private check-in / out facility,
bypassing queues at traditional reception.
Getting to the spa has never been easier and
more discrete, as a private lift takes me straight
into spa reception.
That’s my oasis in the city, The pool is sensually
inviting, styled as a distinct nod to the Turkish
baths for which Hungary is so famed. ESPA spa
is world-celebrated for its use of pure ingredients. I enjoy a facial and full body massage,
blissfully drifting in and out of sleep to the
rhythm of my masseuse.
Gastronomy is superb at Corinthia, with
excellent eateries and destination bars for
the discerning traveller. My favourites include
Rickshaw, a spectacularly appointed Oriental
restaurant, serving Asian-inspired dishes that
are both gourmet and authentic. For something more traditional or international, Atrium
is a beautiful location within the glass-fronted
heart of the building, where history meets
modernity in architecture. Food is curated to
the highest spec. Don’t leave without trying
the desserts – I recommend the Opera cake
or ‘Dobos’ Torte – five layers of sponge and
buttercream are a signature slice of authenticity. And for my fellow sweet-toothed fiends,
the hotel is attached to the most beautiful
bakery or ‘Cukraszda’ in Budapest. Szamos
Marcipan Royal is the finest spot to indulge in
sumptuous afternoon tea.
RURAL RETREAT
Combine any trip to Budapest with a stay in
the countryside for utter wilderness and a
glimpse of true Hungary, away from the glitz
and sparkle of the city…
Hertelendy Castle, Relais & Chateaux
The 3-hour drive from Budapest, by hotel car,
is one of sheer beauty. Vast landscapes weave
in and out of view; lush forests, dramatic
coastlines and traditional towns whiz past. I
arrive in the Somogy Valley in time for lunch.
A fairytale chateau, a vision in golden yellow,
appears in the distance, surrounded by endless
agricultural fields and flat greenery. Entering
grand wrought iron gates, I’m greeted by
fountains and forest. Nestled within is the