Sure Travel Journey Vol 5.2 Autumn 2019 | Page 45

Previous page: Transformation mask, Olinda. Clockwise from left: Things get wild during carnival time. The quieter, charming side of town is easily found in Olinda’s cobblestone streets. Baroque architecture dating back to the 17th century is a cornerstone of Olinda’s identity. The Igreja do Carmo Church. was time for the cleansing and blessing. The mãe de santo took a lit candle to each visitor, tracing the ame around each body, sometimes in silence, sometimes murmuring (oh, to understand!). It was a remarkably practical exercise, with no theatrics. I would love to say I felt a weight shrivel away to lightness or had a ash of clarity, but it would be untrue. Nonetheless, I felt transformed. The lights came on, and we were herded to a kitchen table. Children crowded round, expectant; bottle after bottle of Fanta and lemonade were cracked open. A large, at cake was carved up and o ered about, and voices lled the corners of the room. Even mothers of the saints have birthdays, and it turned out that today was hers. We toasted her with lemonade, and I sank back in inarticulate wonder, marvelling again at how travel scrubs the mind, washing out all preconceptions and prejudices. There is more than one way to be cleansed. © SILVA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PLANNER Q TRAVEL WHEN TO GO: September to February are drier months with less humidity, making travel more comfortable around Olinda. December and January are the busiest months, as is March when the Carnival of Olinda takes place. VISAS: South African passport holders get visa-free entry valid for 90 days upon arrival in Brazil. GO THERE WITH SURE: Sure Travel offers an 11-night Best of Brazil package, taking in the best of what this dynamic South American country has to offer. We can also tailor-make any itinerary to suit your needs and timeframe. Visit www.suretravel.co.za to find your nearest agency, or call 0861 47 48 49. MAKE MEMORIES FOR LIFE // 45