Sure Travel Journey Vol 5.1 Summer 2019 | Page 32

way to get to know northern Norway. The Arctic landscape changes as you travel further north into the Arctic Circle – beryl-blue glacial fjords become inky black; emerald green hills emerge as towering snow-capped granite peaks; colourful fishing villages make way for sombre harbour towns. No matter where your Hurtigruten voyage takes you on this intricate coastline, the people of Norway are as salt-of-the-earth as their beloved Arctic cod, which remain a proud reminder of Norway’s seafaring heritage and are consumed in a myriad of ways – tørrfisk biltong or ice cream, anyone? “ IT’S UNLIKELY HE EVER IMAGINED THAT THE HURTIGRUTEN SERVICE WOULD ONE DAY EARN THE TITLE ‘THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL SEA VOYAGE’ AND EVOLVE INTO A ROUTE KNOWN AS ‘THE COASTAL EXPRESS’ AMONGST SAVVY TRAVELLERS “ This is true from Hammerfest, the most northern town in the world, to nearby Hamnnes, where the locals come out in their … well, there are only 20 of them, to welcome the ship with international flags and even fireworks as it sails into Lyngen Fjord. But back to our epic voyage … It’s almost midnight, but the daylight is going nowhere, and we take up our Norwegian flags and wave enthusiastically back at our new Hamnnes friends, with the Polarys giving everyone a quick toot-toot for good measure. As the heavy clouds meet the surrounding mountains, still covered in snow despite it being spring, we continue to the capital of the north, Tromsø, where the exquisite acoustics within the Arctic Cathedral immerse us in the sounds of alluring Norwegian folksongs and hymns. 32 // MAKE MEMORIES FOR LIFE Tromsø, Norway’s charming capital of the north and port of call for the MS Polarys. WHERE NATURE REMAINS THE STAR OF THE SHOW When Captain Richard With set off to prove that it was possible to operate an express boat service connecting the isolated Norwegian north with the rest of the world in the late 19th century, it’s unlikely he ever imagined that today the Hurtigruten service would have earned the title of “The world’s most beautiful sea voyage” and evolved into a route known as “The Coastal Express” amongst savvy travellers. It’s a beauty you never tire of or take for granted. On sunny days, the smooth waters of the fjords sparkle as the ship slices quietly through their calm waters. The snow on the surrounding peaks seems to have settled into their crevices like icing sugar on a cake, and the only sound you’ll hear is the gentle rumble of the ship as it comes back to life to continue its journey. But it is the dramatic backdrop of low-slung clouds over towering mountains flanking Norway’s fjords and a billowing wind that will remain forever imprinted on my memory.