ALL PHOTOS © TEAGAN CUNNIFFE
STJ 4.4
VISIONS SPECIAL PHOTO ISSUE
THE CROSSING
A UNIQUE JOURNEY ACROSS THE NAMIB BY TEAGAN CUNNIFFE
“ I wouldn ’ t sit there if I were you .” Andrew ’ s cautionary tone broke through my sluggish thoughts . I was leaning against a camelthorn tree and had half dozed off . “ Tampans like shade .”
I lurched to my feet and brushed my lower back , feeling desperately for the beetle-like ticks that were , very likely , crawling all over me . My searching hands found none and my relief was as apparent as Andrew ’ s amusement .
I was documenting a 10-night desert ride with the Namibia Horse Safari Company , crewed by magicians who made dinner appear out of thin air and conversation crack with laughter . Andrew Gillies was one of them , taking the role of lead guide . His rugged charm and gruff voice lent him a charisma that suited the stark , apocalyptic landscapes that we were riding through , where wind whistled thinly over sand and mountains floated like mirages on the distant horizon . To call this country beautiful only scratches the surface of the feeling that it gives you . No trace of humanity in any direction , just endless hues of browns , reds and blues that make civilisation a distant reality .
Sand tampans are a perfect example of what it takes to survive in this arid world . Button-sized and light brown , they bury themselves in the sand beneath trees , waiting for an animal to seek shelter from the sun . When one does , they scurry out like a marauding force and up their unwitting host ’ s legs . They can wait for weeks , even years , for their next meal . But survive they do , along with a surprising variety of other critters and creatures . We saw springbok pronking in waves of midday heat and an aardwolf in the early dusk , its form shrouded in shadow . Giraffe lumbered over the hard ground and oryx watched us idly by the dozen . The landscape here is home only to those who have adapted to it .
All this made our journey even more remarkable : not only were we travelling
a distance of 250km across uninhabited territory , but we were doing it in style . Long days in the saddle were met with delicious meals , and Andrew ’ s call of “ Bar ’ s open !” heralded gin and tonics while the sun set . Camp was set in a different location each night , the crew working tirelessly to make it all seem easy . Our beds were under the stars , neatly tucked into a feather bedroll , the night sky above the canvas to our dreams . The Milky Way arched above us , slowly slipping from one side of the heavens to the other .
We ’ d start off slowly each morning ,
“
The highlight is crossing the dune sea on the fourth day of the ride . Waves of red sand undulate towards the purple Tiras Mountains and contrast with the deep blue of the sky .
“ warming up aching muscles and talking about the route for the day . The loose horses would have none of that , though – they ’ d canter on ahead , bucking and nipping at each other playfully . These were the “ spare ” horses brought along as backup in case of injury or tiredness . Galloping freely with loose horses all around you – dust streaming from hooves and exhilaration tangible in the air – is a definition of freedom .
The highlight of the Wild Horses safari is crossing the dune sea on the fourth day of the ride . Waves of red sand undulate towards the purple Tiras Mountains and contrast with the deep blue of the sky . It ’ s spectacular . The dunes get bigger
46 // MAKE MEMORIES FOR LIFE