Sure Travel Journey Vol 4.3 Winter 2018 | Page 33

• E N R O U T E / / C O V E R S T O R Y © FUXA/SHUTTERSTOCK Left: The journey is the destination - especially when you’re cruising in a campervan. Above: The Emerald Lakes. Below: Traditional Maori mask. is hunker down, our eyes welling with wind-whipped tears, and carry on slowly up the narrow spine of rock and scree. It’s worth the slog once we reach the top and the Emerald Lakes come into view below us, their turquoise, mineral-rich waters contrasting sharply with the barren landscape that surrounds them. I survive the rest of the 20km trek with my glue-shoes intact and by late afternoon we’re back at our campervan at the Whakapapa Motor Home, resting our tootsies and sipping on chardonnay. © ADWO/ADOBESTOCK “ PEOPLE BELIEVE THAT IF THEY CLIMB UP AND DROP THEIR WEDDING RING IN THE CRATER IT WILL CHANGE THEIR LUCK. I’VE DROPPED FIVE RINGS IN THERE AND IT HASN’T WORKED FOR ME “ Rings volcano isn’t part of the crossing, but many Hobbit-Botherers (as diehard fans are known in these parts) have insisted on scrambling up the sheer slopes of Mount Ngauruhoe (its real name), invariably getting themselves in trouble and forcing local authorities to declare it out of bounds. “Some people believe that if they climb up and drop their wedding ring in the crater it will change their luck,” Terry had quipped earlier. “I’ve dropped five rings in there and it hasn’t worked for me, so please don’t go up there.” Instead we skirt the infamous volcano and climb up the aptly named Devil’s Staircase, then cross a barren plateau before ascending the ridge to the Red Crater. The wind catches us as soon as we clear the plateau. Its violence is surprising, threatening to pluck us off the ridge with every freezing step. The only thing to do CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE Like most of New Zealand, what makes the Tongariro Alpine Crossing so appealing is its accessibility. There are few places in the world where you would be able to experience this kind of adventure so readily, and the entire island – both North and South – is geared towards tourism, especially outdoors. Campervans rule the road and everything from vintage VW kombis to state-of-the-art behemoths are the preferred modes of transport. This is all complemented by an excellent network of campsites and motor homes that dot even the most remote regions, making the entire country a choose-your-own- adventure of natural delights. From Tongariro we assess our options: head south to the wine-rich region of Napier or east to Gisborne, where the MAKE MEMORIES FOR LIFE // 33