Sure Travel Journey Vol 4.3 Winter 2018 | Page 28

• E N R O U T E / / D E S T I N A T I O N P I C K Left: The statue of reclining Buddha at Dambulla Cave Temple. Below left: A dressed dancer celebrating Poya Day, which takes place on the full moon and is a day of religious observance for Sinhalese Buddhists. ©PUTHIKAMPOL / SHUTTERSTOCK Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle is home to six of the country’s eight World Heritage Sites, and Kandy is the perfect base for exploring ©SHEVCHENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK Sri Lanka’s so-called Cultural Triangle is home to six of the country’s eight World Heritage Sites, and Kandy is the perfect base for exploring the three most popular: the elaborate cave temples of Dambulla, the hilltop citadel of Sigiriya and the remarkable, ancient capital of Polonnaruwa. While you can tackle them on a single long day, as I did, it’s better to 28 // MAKE MEMORIES FOR LIFE spend a few days in the region, soaking up the 1,000-year-old stories of the kingdoms that once ruled Sri Lanka. I’m pushed for time, though, and hop the 5am express out of Kandy one chilly Sunday morning. I munch dhal vade for breakfast and sip the piping hot tea sold by platform vendors as the train rattles and clanks its way downhill, offering another superb panorama of Sri Lanka from the rails. Like most travellers to the island, I’m bookending my stay with some time on the coast. The island boasts some of the finest beaches in Asia, with everything from high-rise hotels to castaway guesthouses on offer. I spend an afternoon discovering the historic city of Galle, but am happy to beat a retreat back to my digs on Mirissa beach, where bars and restaurants line the white sands. I regret not heading further east to Tangalle – home to some of the finest beaches in the south, I’m told – or packing my surfboard to spend a week scouting for unpopulated waves. But that’s for next time. In just 10 days on the island I’ve discovered a remarkable cross-section of the country, from the crowded streets of Colombo to serene hilltops, ancient temples and Instagrammable white beaches. And yet I’ve barely scratched the surface. I’ll be back to dive the reefs of the east coast and to go bird watching in the pristine Sinharaja Forest Reserve. Up north the Tamil city of Jaffna delivers an entirely different side to Sri Lanka, in both cuisine and culture, and I still need to spend some time spotting leopards in Yala. And yes, to take another stroll through the crazy streets of Pettah. TRAVEL PLANNER GETTING THERE: Emirates and Q Qatar Airways offer daily flights from South Africa to Colombo, via Dubai/Doha. GET AROUND: In Colombo you’ll find tuk-tuk taxis on every corner. Few will agree to use the meter and haggling is essential. Expect to pay around 100 rupees per kilometre. Uber is available, making for a good option to get to/from the airport. Train and bus services link all major towns and are the most affordable way to get around. If you prefer a little more comfort and flexibility, ask your Sure Travel agent to book a car and driver for your stay. WHEN TO GO: Though temperatures remain fairly constant year-round, rainfall is heavily influenced by two separate monsoon seasons. December to March is the best time to visit the popular hill country and southwest coast, while the east coast enjoys its sunniest months between May and September. Plan your visit accordingly.