Sure Travel Journey Vol 4.2 Autumn 2018 | Page 34

© SF/SHUTTERSTOCK • E N R O U T E / / D E S T I N A T I O N P I C K ALL PHOTOS © SAMANTHA REINDERS world is going to end tomorrow” kind of way, just in the “you never know when you might have to start a fire with just your underpants” kind of way. It was from him I learnt that your everyday dental floss is the best and most hardy cord with which to tie people together so they don’t get separated in a crowd. He brought some along in his survival kit, just in case. It is with this set of collective skills that we set forth to conquer India. ALLEYWAY WEDDING SEASON The planning of the trip was my job. Their only wish: “No touristy stuff. And we want to camp in the desert.” No problem, I said, that’s up my alley. And alleys are where it’s at in India – 34 // MAKE MEMORIES FOR LIFE small, winding, dark, endless and covered in cow poop (although Mom informs me the more appropriate term is “cow pats”). We wandered the alleys of Rajasthan, Agra and Varanasi’s old cities getting hopelessly lost. Sometimes even on purpose. When you get the chance to look up – that is when you’re not dodging cows, camels or extended families on a single scooter going at a breakneck speed – you’re met with the most intricate and delicate woodcarvings and colourful, often hilarious and naughty paintings in centuries-old havelis (a traditional townhouse or mansion in India). In these alleys, underneath a spiderweb of electric cables, our vacation coincided with high wedding season and a few weeks of particularly auspicious days in the lunar calendar. A day didn’t go by without walking slap bang into a wedding celebration – which happens out in the open on the street in full colour and at full blast. Weddings are at least five-day affairs with a complicated set of rituals and blessings played out by all parties concerned. We were never quite sure where we’d found ourselves within the scenario but each occasion involved a horse (white, with decorations) and a full band comprising a band leader, tuba player, trombonist, a bored-looking drummer and someone with cymbals and a demonic look in his eyes. There was always a troupe of people with chandelier-like lanterns and much dancing by the community who were decked out in their best saris, jewellery and turbans.