• E N R O U T E / / S E Y C H E L L E S
UNTYING THE LINES
ISLAND-HOPPING THE SEYCHELLES ON A SAILBOAT ( CLOTHES OPTIONAL ), BY EVAN HAUSSMANN
“ What do I do if you fall off ?” Claire screamed as she passed me the boat ’ s sharpest knife . I gave her a very quick lesson in stopping the yacht , then stuck my goggled face back into the seething water to cut fishing net away from the propeller .
This was not a highlight , not for Claire anyway . I ’ d promised her a holiday she ’ d never forget . “ Come island-hopping with me in the Seychelles ,” I ’ d lured . “ You don ’ t even need to pack much – clothes are optional . Just bring as much wine , coffee and biltong as customs will allow . I ’ ll fetch you at the airport .”
Before setting sail we spent a few days visiting the quaint villages on the archipelago ’ s biggest island , Mahé .
A rented topless car was a superb way to visit the ramshackle tourist attractions and beaches . Along the way we stocked up on fresh produce from roadside stalls , punctuating our stops with a cool drink and a chat with ever-affable locals . We soon had some insider tips and the laid-back local vibe began to dissolve our city-style sense of urgency .
After casting off the lines we languidly navigated the passages between Seychelles ’ three main islands – Mahé , Praslin and La Digue . We stopped off to explore islets and their coves in between .
Some days fish didn ’ t bite to disturb our lounging about . Other days were spent peering at reefs obscured by a living rainbow of fish , or paddling our kayak ashore and exploring the islands .
On Praslin we took bouncy , staccato bus rides to the end of the road , then hiked wild , scrappy trails through jungle and rock all the way back to the anchorage , via the middle island ’ s highest peaks . On La Digue , devoid of cars and the baby of the three islands , we cycled everywhere .
After a few days on the boat it struck me that “ conventional ” exploration by car and land-based accommodation – packing our bags every time we moved – was exceptionally tedious . It ate precious time . On the boat we were free to move with weather and whim – and when returning to the boat from excursions all our stuff was where we ’ d left it , ready and accessible . No unpacking or rummaging
20 // MAKE MEMORIES FOR LIFE