GEt Gluttonous pOuTINe : MIcheL JuLIeN ; resTAurANT : DAvID ZILBerMAN ; Beer : TOBy ANDrIs cAyOueTTe
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Food & drink
Eat Your WaY around an Island
By DAviD Ort
My tour of Quebec ’ s Île d ’ Orléans includes croissants , fried cheese and poutine , but it ’ s the scent of lavender that lingers .
Often called the “ Garden of Quebec ,” the island in the St . Lawrence River has been at the heart of Quebecois cuisine for hundreds of years . Today , the best way to enjoy it is by driving the Chemin Royal ring road . Keep your windows down for the full olfactory effect .
My trip starts with superb pastries at La Boulange . Though it ’ s a fair distance northeast of the lone bridge from the mainland , an early arrival is important . Lineups form quickly here , and some of the specialties — like the flaky pain au chocolat and rich maple nut brioche — can and do sell out .
The island ’ s fromagerie is similarly in demand . A unique gastro-historical experience , its staff dress in period costume and use a 17th-century recipe to replicate North America ’ s first cheese . One version ,
Insider Info
Rosemarie Herscovitch CAA Travel consultant
Mythical meal : “ One of the best meals I ’ ve had was in Quebec city at tiny IX pour Bistro ( 1104 , 18e rue ). The signature dessert is a floating
Hyper-local poutine at La Ferme d ’ Oc
Le Paillasson , is fried on a griddle to give it a chewy yet creamy texture .
Montreal gets the lion ’ s share of the poutine press , but I make a point to visit waterfowl farm La Ferme d ’ Oc , and its on-site La Roulotte du Coin poutinerie , for its delicious take on the iconic snack — made with hyper-local ingredients , naturally . Crisp , decadent duck fat fries almost render superfluous the cheese curds , gravy and foie gras pâté topping . I ’ m struck by how clearly the farmer underlines his connection to thoughtful , small-scale production by placing a pen of geese front and centre , right beside the picnic tables .
And that lavender smell ? It ’ s most pervasive near Seigneurie de l ’ Île d ’ Orléans , which devotes four hectares to the aromatic herb . It ’ s farms like these that earn the island its reputation as the region ’ s vegetable garden by supplying Quebec City with a significant portion of its produce . Of course , foodies go directly to the source : By early summer the roadsides are lined with fruit stands selling fresh berries . Or visit Ferme Léonce Plante to pick some of your own , including a unique-to-theisland strawberry variety that ’ s said to have particularly high levels of antioxidants .
island-esque dish , topped with grated , apple brandysoaked foie gras . It ’ s legendary in my family ; we dubbed it “ Tears of a unicorn .” Make a booking as soon as you know your travel dates ! The bistro has just nine tables and is reservation only , but it ’ s well known among foodies .” chef Martin picard dishes upscale yet unapologetically Quebecois fare at Au pied du cochon . But for an even more indulgent meal , reserve a seat at picard ’ s cabane à sucre , a rustic outpost open during the spring maple syrup season and autumn harvest . Wear loose-fitting pants : The massive menu changes on a regular basis , but is reliably stuffed with fatty meats , local cheeses and gooey syrup .
doWn Craft drauGhts
The unique character of Montreal — proud of its history yet keenly contemporary — is reflected in its artisan beer scene , so try a Montreal craft Beer Tour as a way to sample the city . In addition to tasting exclusive housemade ales with Quebec cheeses , charcuterie and chocolates , guests also get an insider ’ s perspective on local architecture and attractions .
Visit Rosemarie at Empress service centre , email rosemarieh @ caamanitoba . com , or call 204-262-6000 or 1-800-222-4357
CAA MANITOBA FALL 2016 35