Skin Health Magazine Issue #11 / Spring 2019 | Page 14

FEELING FRUITY? Exfoliating enzymes, the fruity alternative to acids and scrubs By Shari Shallard B efore we talk fruit, let’s cover the basics. If it’s not already in there, an exfoliator should be part of your existing skin care regime — this is how you remove dead and dull skin to reveal that fresher, smoother, brighter complexion hiding beneath. Exfoliating also addresses uneven pigmentation, blocked pores, and wrinkles, plus it prepares skin to better absorb other products. Physical exfoliators work manually, buffing away rough patches and any unevenness in much the same way sandpaper lightly smoothes out the delicate surface of a fine piece of woodwork. (Your face is, uh, woodwork in this analogy.) These might be actual scrubs, facial brushes or grainy creams. Chemical exfoliants contain acids and enzymes that dissolve the bonds between the skin cells so dead cells rinse away easily. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), and Poly hydroxy acids (PHAs), are among the most commonly used chemical exfoliants. However, if you’ve read your chemical exfoli- ating product’s packaging lately, you might be wondering why part of the ingredient list resembles a smoothie recipe. Making Things Happen Inside our bodies, enzymes are making things happen; they’re called biological catalysts because they enable countless chemical reactions to occur fast enough to keep us functioning. When fruit-derived enzymes are added to our skin care products, they’re also making things happen. Typically called on for their exfoliating and anti-inflammatory capabilities, enzymes break down the keratin protein that holds dead skin cells in place. Pomegranate, papaya, pumpkin and pineapple, for example, are used in skin care for a range of benefits, including antioxidant-richness that nourishes the skin and fights damage caused by free radicals, as well as a high Vitamin C count that helps with forming collagen and strengthening skin. Feeling Fruity Pomegranate’s inclusion in topical exfoliants is thanks to key anti-aging compounds that help stimulate the skin cells and encourage cell regeneration. An exfoliating gel like the VERSO Enzyme Peel relies on Pomegranate Enzymes to encourage healthy cell renewal, but it also has antioxidant and antimicrobial benefits. In the Pure Triple Peel by Akademikliniken, the cleansing, smoothing, and brightening power is again thanks in part to Pomegranate Enzymes — but this time it’s combined with Papaya Enzymes. Why papaya? Papaya contains an enzyme called Papain which is known for everything from tenderising meat to whitening teeth. But we’re interested in what it can do for the skin, which is plenty: Papaya is rich in antioxidants, vita- mins, and carotenoids, plus the Papain Enzyme is highly effective at dissolving and removing dead skin cells. Papaya Enzymes also show up ISSUE #11 | 2019 | SkinHealthMagazine.com 14