perspiration, the acne process, minor inflamma-
tory reactions and dandruff conditions.’ Yet it
was the dermatologist, Albert Kligman, who
really made cosmeceuticals famous and laid
the groundwork for anti-aging. His academic
research on skin ailments uncovered that the
keratolytic action of Vitamin A (also known as
Retinoic Acid) could be very useful in treating
acne. After extensive clinical studies to prove
that Retinoic Acid indeed improved acne, the
ingredient was approved by the FDA in the US
in 1971 and marketed under the name Retin-A.
This in itself isn’t that revolutionary - modern
science allowed for the investigation of many
dermatological concerns. But here’s where it
gets interesting: older patients using Retin-A
reported that the product reduced the appear-
ance of their wrinkles and improved their overall
complexion. Kligman began clinical tests on
older women to understand more and alongside
additional research by the American Academy
of Dermatology and Harvard Medical School,
the dermatological community proved that the
nightly use of Retin-A resulted in better tone,
texture, firmness, and overall quality of the
skin. Supplementary research on mechanism
of action showed that the Retinoic Acid did
more than stimulate cell turnover; it increased
blood flow to the skin, while thickening and
reorganising surface layers and increasing the
production of collagen and elastin. As a result,
the product improved the appearance of ageing
skin, especially signs of photo-aging and sun
damage. And just like that, Retinoic Acid
became the first real cosmeceutical, shown
to be efficiently absorbed by skin, to have a
scientific mechanism of action, and be backed
by peer-reviewed, double-blind, placebo-con-
trolled, statistically-significant clinical trials
to substantiate the claims. Suddenly there was
proof behind a scientific promise to remove
‘tell-tale wrinkles’. Hooray! But, thankfully,
our story doesn’t end there.
I am sure these findings were not lost on one
Dr Sheldon Pinnell, a collagen chemist and
dermatologist at Duke University in the
1980s who was studying Vitamin C and its
role in wound healing, skin ageing, and skin
cancer prevention. Through diligent scientific
research, he was the first to discover the param-
eters to deliver pure Vitamin C effectively
into the skin, to elucidate its mechanism of
action as an antioxidant, and to substantiate
it through peer-reviewed, placebo-controlled
studies as to its efficacy in neutralising free
radical damage, both alone and in synergy
with other antioxidants. Importantly, his
trials were done in-vivo, meaning proof was
obtained using live skin cells instead of cell
cultures to reflect real-life usage. Quite simply,
Dr Pinnell was using the rigour of academic
research and the methodology of Retinoic
Acid and applying it to an expanded world of
skin care. He helped to further the learnings
on cosmeceuticals and establish the field of
evidence-based skin care – so much so that
for many physicians today, antioxidants are
the cornerstone of healthy skin, alongside
sunscreens and Retinoids.
Fast forward to today and it makes sense why
cosmeceutical brands are popular: we rely on
technology for daily living, scientific advances
point to solutions in diseases and global prob-
lems, and as a society we are on the defence
against fake news and big corporations. We
want proven ingredients and proof of efficacy.
SkinCeuticals is a brand that was built on the
academic science of antioxidants but, more
importantly, it was built on an obsession with
proof, achieved through rigorous methodol-
ogy in live skin rather than quick-to-market
shortcuts. Over 30 years later, we still follow
Dr Pinnell’s approach to proof, painstakingly
testing for absorption and mechanism of action,
alongside strictly-controlled clinical studies.
This doesn’t always mean quick. In a fast-paced
world, however, we believe that good science
and good proof are more valuable than ever
before, worth waiting for, and the best recipe
for great skin.
ISSUE #10 | 2019 | SkinHealthMagazine.com 7