SEVENSEAS Marine Conservation & Travel Issue 19, December 2016 | Page 109

SEVENSEAS - 109

Sylvia Gottwald

jewely, fine art, & conservation

balone (haliotis) is one of the most familiar and recognizable shells used from the food industry, to jewelry, and

decorative objects. Abalones live in the waters along every continent except the Atlantic coast of South America, the Caribbean, and the East Coast of the United States. Most abalones are found in cold waters along the coasts of New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, Western North America, and Japan in the Northern Hemisphere.

The shell of the abalone is exceptionally strong and is made of microscopic calcium carbonate tiles stacked like bricks- between the layers of tiles is a clingy protein. The shell is convex, rounded to oval or ear-shaped, presenting a small, flat spire and a row of holes which are respiratory apertures for venting water from the gills and for releasing sperm and eggs into the water column. The older holes are gradually sealed up as the shell grows and new holes form. Each species has a typically between four and ten open holes.

The color of the shell is very variable from species to species which may reflect the animal's diet. The iridescent nacre that lines the inside of the shell also varies in color from silvery white, to pink, red and green-red to deep blue, green to purple.

In recent years the Northwest Pacific environmental changes have greatly reduced the numbers of abalone. Severe El Niños in the 1980s and 1990s created conditions in California were the ocean water warmed, the nutrient level decreased and kelp beds withered. Since kelp was a main food for the abalone this had a devastating effect on the populations.

In general, over exploitation of abalone fisheries, illegal harvesting, disease, and habitat degradation have all contributed to decline of available wild abalone shells. At the same time, farm production in most countries has seen an increase.

Abalone in world of arts and crafts:

Natural shells have been used as ornamental materials across the world since the Neolithic period. Long before the arrival of Europeans, the Pacific Ocean provided the American Indian Nations of California with an abundance of abalone. These provided not only food, but the shells were the raw material for beads, jewelry, currency, and fishhooks. For Native people of the California region, abalone has a remarkably complex significance as it was not only a food but held spirit value, had a narrative symbol, was a tradable commodity, and a material with which to make adornment and sacred regalia.

The Abalone was also favored material for traditional crafts all along the Pacific Rim countries, especially China, Japan, and Korea. Specifically, in traditional Korean nacre inlay crafts, the material used is mainly that of abalone. Though artisans do also use the mother-of-pearl (nacre) of other shell-fish, they believe the abalone nacre is of the highest quality, producing the most beautiful colors and light reflections. After eating shellfish, Korean people would utilize shell remnants as ornaments and decoration. As a result,we see development of traditional craft of a distinct technique and style ,where the most important and prevalent shell type is always the abalone from the southern sea of the Korean Peninsula. Lacquer artisans in ancient Korea devoted their lives to inlay this brilliant, iridescent abalone in their handcrafted lacquer objects.

Initially, Korean craft masters utilized many natural materials with iridescent color effect, such as jewel beetle wings or mica flakes; however, only after the use of the abalone did the nacre inlay techniques and lacquer become fully developed resulting in technical perfection.

The finest artworks of the craft have been traced to the Goryeo dynasty (918–1392), especially during the 12th century. Only approximately 20 Goryeo dynasty abalone inlaid lacquer objects still exist in collections. The traditional Korean mother-of-pearl lacquer craft developed its own artistic style distinct from other East Asian countries, as for example Japan or China in terms of technique, style, pattern and materials.

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December 2016 Art & Culture