Scale Aviator International Magazine Issue 3 - Page 95

7 8 The primer went on easily and I sealed the leading edges with aluminium tape. You probably noticed the scale flap treatment on the underneath of the wing. I also extended the sheeting to cover the aileron joint. Photo #7 I did reinforce the extended sheeting over the aileron to cover the hinge joint. I used a strip of light plywood sheeting to keep it from drooping and breaking off. Although this material is pretty tough. I have to point out that the servo linkage to the flap and ailerons are hidden. If you don’t want it to look like an ARF then hide those linkages under the wing. Guys at the field will take a second look once your airborne, and of course come over when you land to ask all those questions about what did you build this from.... 9 I was continually impressed as I mentioned earlier, that the Fliteskin looked so good once applied. Now that I had gone this far, I felt this model deserved to look more scale even though it was an ARF. I added more scale treatment on this model 10 including glassing the fuselage, and added electric retracts. I will show that in the next issue assembled, painted and ready to fly. Photo #8,9 carry this product or something similar. I found it to sand a lot easier than Bondo. & 10. I also applied the material to the tail feathers Photo #11 & 12, and this was a lot easier. At the edges I filled them in with Split Second two part body filler. This material sands off easily and primer covers it really well. Most paint stores that sell to auto body shops With some of the small scraps of the Fliteskin I covered the horizontal stabs and the control surfaces. The control surfaces on a full size T6 Texan are fabric covered, but the material was so easy to apply, I decided to cover them as well. 95