RMI and Whittaker Mountaineering Gear Guides Mount McKinley Expedition | Page 8

Ice Axes on McKinley Unlike many mountains of smaller scale, we will climb with an ice axe leash on Denali. We want to avoid losing our axes midway through an expedition in the event of a slip or fall. The leash won\'t actually go to your wrist but instead to your harness, making it far easier to swap hands with the axe. Some climbers choose to take a little scrap of old foam pad and place it around the head of the axe, leaving the pick and adze exposed, and then wrapping it with duct tape to secure it. This provides a little bit of insulation from the cold conductive metal on summit day and keeps your hands warm. Make sure you are conservative with the size of the foam and only cut what you need - you don\'t want to compromise the function of the axe by minimizing the pick of the adze or making it difficult to grip securely. Ice Axes The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5\'8\", use a 65 cm. axe; 5\'8\" to 6\'2\", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground. Fitting Crampons We find that a 12-point rather than a 10-point crampon is beneficial should icy conditions be encountered. Avoid aluminum crampons as they are easily damaged on rock. Your crampons should be adjusted so that the sole of the boot sits snugly on the crampon frame, and the toe and heel bails snug securely around the boot, minimizing any movement. Crampons are right and left foot specific, with the buckles designed to sit to the outside of the ankle, and the adjustment bar bent to mirror the shape of the foot. Typically, straps run from the ankle, through the toe bail, and to the buckles on the outside of the ankle. Excess strap length can be trimmed or tucked inside the velcro on the front of the gaiters. To learn more, check out the Whittaker Mountaineering Guide to Ice Axes and Crampons. Crampons 12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended.