RitzyToo! June- July 2015 | Page 10

Book Review Silver Treasures From the Land of Sheba ever, for she uses geography and gender to organize the book, introducing the reader to the many geographic areas of Yemen before detailing types and kinds of jewelry the regions’s smiths and jewelers made. She focuses on late nineteenth and twentieth century jewelry and costumes worn by Yemeni women. Her research is based on extensive interviews with Yemeni craftsmen who made and women who owned the pieces.   RANSOM, MARJORIE.  SILVER TREASURES FROM THE LAND OF SHEBA: REGIONAL YEMENI JEWELRY. Photographs of jewelry and costumes by Robert K. Liu. Cairo and New York: The American University in Cairo Press, 2014. Pp. 244. ISBN: 978-977-416-600-6.   Marjorie Ransom, a retired US diplomat who served in the Middle East, has produced a magnificent tribute to Yemeni silversmiths and jewelry makers. The book is full of wonderful insights about and photos of jewelry made by Yemeni craftsmen. She has collected over her lifetime of service in the diplomatic corps hundreds of pieces of Middle Eastern silver jewelry and costumes; she shared those pieces through her “Silver Speaks” exhibit at various museums in the nation, most notably the now-closed Bead Museum of DC. This book examines in detail the great contribution of Yemeni silversmiths, Muslim and Jewish alike, to the production of Middle Eastern silver jewelry. Ms. Ransom notes that for centuries Yemen was divided into North Yemen and South Yemen, the North oriented culturally toward the Ottoman Empire, the South heavily invested in India. Ransom’s use of geography does not end there, how10| June-July | RitzyToo! | RitzyToo.com Yemeni smiths made silver jewelry for centuries. Ms. Ransom explains that centuries ago Yemeni smiths, to get silver for their work, began using Maria Theresa silver thalers, melted down, to acquire silver. The coin came to the region in the 18th century. The smiths continued using MTs as they are called into the twentieth century. Even today, some smiths still have MTs in their shops.  A map introduces the reader to each region with a brief explanation of its culture and economy. Then consideration of jewelry produced by area smiths reveals similarities and differences among Yemeni regional styles. For instance, Saada silversmiths produced high, pointed rings, about the only region in Yemen to do so. Among  characteristics distinguishing Jewish smiths in Saada was their beautiful granulation, illustrated on page 56. Until the creation of Israel in 1948, Muslim and Jewish silversmiths plied and learned their trades in Yemen. After 1948, however, nearly all the Jewish silversmiths migrated to Israel, letting Jewish jewelry traditions die out.  The book is filled with similar examples of Jewish and Muslim craftwork and interchanges between the two cultures.  The photographs, taken by Robert K. Liu, editor of Ornament magazine, reveal the detail and beauty of the pieces. There are over 300 photographs and each complements the text. The book is well researched and filled with insights into Yemeni and Middle Eastern culture and craftsmanship, a strongly recommended read.