There is a distinct
feeling of a French
influence here, which
is owed in part to the
city’s history – in 1688
Koblenz was seized by
the French
We normally drive to Koblenz and use
the channel tunnel as opposed to the
ferry which I despise for fear of sea
sickness. The time it takes to cross
France, Belgium and the Netherlands
is far less than you might expect and
almost definitely less of the drama of
flying. In December it often snows in
Koblenz and the snow covered region
provides an idyllic setting for a romantic
Christmas getaway – traditional halftimbered buildings with tiny candle-lit
windows set the scene of a Doctor
Zhivago movie! The air is crisp, cold and
dry and you are immediately intoxicated
by the vast variety of aromas of mulled
wine, eggnog, gingerbread, cinnamon
and liquorice. Close your eyes and your
senses will tell you exactly where you
are! You soon become well-acquainted
with the words ‘eierhpusch’ (eggnog) and
‘gluhwein’ (mulled-wine) not to mention
‘danke’ (thank you) and ‘chuus’ (ciao)!
The hot-served alcohol certainly warms
you up and gives you the energy you
need to face the freezing cold and drinks
are served in delightful glass mugs with
the Koblenz trademark of the ‘spitting
boy’. With every drink you are served,
you are given a token – and you must
remember to return the token if you are
to claim back your deposit for the glass
mug. It was the Romans who originally
founded Koblenz and brought the vine
culture here, and it has flourished ever
since – serving great wines hot and
chilled in the many restaurants along the
riverside and in the historic town centre.
There is even a “kinder gluhwein” for
the young, but somehow we could not
convince our five year old that it was
alcohol-free and she wouldn’t drink it, a
stance that will change the moment she
hits her teens no doubt!
You had better forget being on a diet
too – all the food at the Christmas stalls
is far from healthy, but oh so good –
you will be tempted by the bratwursts,
steaks, pommes frites, champignons
au béchamel and many other delights
offered at a number of the stalls –some
of which provide seating and heated
areas! The desserts are just as good,
one of my favourites is a traditional
German pudding consisting of what
looks like a giant piece of uncooked
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