Restaurant Review
Drakes Restaurant – Brighton
En route to Drakes restaurant, my
companion and I bumped into some
friends. When we told them where we
were going for dinner, all three of them
expressed envy. This left us confident we
were going to have a fine dining experience
– and we were not disappointed.
The restaurant on Marine Parade has
entertained the likes of Kylie Minogue,
Woody Allen, Cate Blanchett, and
celebrity chefs Keith Floyd and Gordon
Ramsey and has achieved the highest
score of all Brighton restaurants in The
Good Food Guide 2014 for the fifth
consecutive year.
We couldn’t have got there quick enough...
On arrival, we were warmly greeted by
Eddie, who looked after us for the whole
evening. We were provided with water
straight away and neither of us had to lift
a finger to fill our glasses for the rest of
the evening.
The restaurant is intimate without being
cramped. Exposed brickwork, cool grey
tones and hints of red give it a modern,
chic feel. We felt as though we had plenty
of personal space but we enjoyed the
atmosphere - being surrounded by other
diners who all seemed to be enjoying
their experience.
Eddie brought us a glass of sparkling rosé
made locally at Kingscote Vineyards near
East Grinstead, which was the perfect
aperitif. The wine list is so impressive
it was twice shortlisted for the Louis
Roederer Wine List of the Year.
The menu was explained in full and we
were given two recommendations from
each course.
It was suggested that we try the handdived scallops with cauliflower, caviar
and almond puree and blue cheese ice
cream and butternut risotto, which we
were more than happy to do. Other options
included goat curd and pea salad and
local mackerel with pickled cucumber and
beetroot salad.
Before the starters arrived, we were
treated to a clear tomato consommé with
haricot beans and basil. This was light and
refreshing and is prepared over a period of
hours. It was accompanied by a selection
of homemade rolls but in anticipation of
the further three courses, we decided it
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was best to share a parmesan and bac on
scone as it was difficult to not fill up at this
early stage.
We were both particularly impressed with
the presentation. The plump scallops
were served on a dark slate plate, topped
with caviar and a drizzle of puree with
a scoop of ice cream, while the risotto
came served with a wedge of parmesan
crust. My companion described the
risotto as delightful and delicate while the
scallops were meaty and tender, perfectly
complemented by the blue cheese ice
cream, which I am still surprised I loved.
To accompany the scallops, I sipped a
glass of Domaine de la Janasse Viognier,
Principalite d’Orange - a 2013 French
wine, priced at £7.50 per glass.
For the main course, Eddie recommended
the 28 day dry-aged fillet of beef with
pommes Pont Neuf, girolle mushrooms,
roast bone marrow, spinach soubise and
béarnaise sauce and the herb-crusted
loin of new season lamb with braised
lamb shoulder, sweetbreads, dauphinoise
potato, carrots and rosemary sauce. Other
choices included poached and roasted
breast of chicken, pan-roasted fillet of sea
bass and grilled polenta.
We enjoyed a comfortable break between
courses and soon our main courses
arrived. My companion plumped for the
beef while I opted for the lamb, which was
accompanied by a lovely smooth red wine
(Mencia Alodio, Ribeira Sacra, Galica,
Spain 2013 - £6.50 per glass).
The beef was cooked precisely as it
had been asked for and was beautifully
presented with thick cut chips and a
thick béarnaise sauce bursting with
flavour. The lamb was melt in the mouth
and came three ways - served with
the dauphinoise potatoes salted and
peppered to perfection. Neither dish
could be faulted.
The portions were well-balanced so
despite clearing our plates, we were
not too full for dessert – we’d come
this far. Again, Eddie recommended
his top choices including the raspberry
souffle and chocolate fondant. He had
been right about everything so far so
we continued to place our trust in him.
The fondant was rich and decadent and
polished off, the souffle was light and
fluffy. My only gripe was that there were
Wes’
no fresh raspberries inside - otherwise, it
was spot on.
Coffee and petit fours followed but I have to
confess to admitting defeat by this stage.
We spent three hours in the restaurant
and at no time did we feel rushed. The
atmosphere was really pleasant and the
service exemplary. I will definitely return.
Reviewed by Wes Game
The prices are very reasonable with a two
or three course lunch menu for £20/£25
and dinner menus from £29.95 for two,
£39.95 for three or £55 for the five-course
taster menu. Vegetarian menus are
excellent and the restaurant caters for
most dietary requirements.
By Liza Laws
Visit: www.drakesofbrighton.com for
more information
Argentina
P15, Malbec
£9 Majestic Wines or finewinedirectuk.com
This Malbec comes from the Neuquen
province, the most southerly wine region
of Argentina, and can claim to be the
world’s newest wine region, established
in the 21st century. This intense purplish
red Malbec is a great discovery. With
aromas of cherries and vanilla, the
longlasting flavours of plums and spices
can be intense. The stony soils certainly
add a little mineral taste to the wine and
went well with the minted lamb I had for
dinner that night. Keep an eye out for this
wine, as well as others from the region,
as they are showing signs of potential
already. Lots of flavour for your money.
Australia
The Boxer, Bill Calabria,
Roussanne & Viognier
£10 from Laithwaites
Australia is not known for Roussanne &
Viognier but they work well together here.
Roussanne is often added or blended to
other grape varieties in the Rhone, as it
adds perfumed and fruit aromas to the
wine. Add in the exotic fruits, apricots
and honey flavours of Viognier and there
is plenty to think about. Although a little
buttery, there is still enough zing in this
wine to keep it fresh and crisp when well
chilled. The flavour packs enough punch
for your BBQ. I hope it’s a knockout!
(Sorry I couldn’t resist!)
France
Nicolas Potel, Bourgogne,
Pinot Noir
New Zealand
Cloudy Bay,
Sauvignon Blanc
£8-9 Majestic Wines
£20-£22 at Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Majestic
and others
With more than a third of all vineyards
in Burgundy planted with Pinot Noir, it
is not surprising that the region has the
reputation for some of the finest available.
Pinot Noirs can vary considerably and
this one from Nuits St Georges, one
of the key villages in the heartland of
Burgundy, is a little more medium bodied
than others, with an elegant ruby red
colour and red fruit aromas. The wine is
very dry to taste (high tannin) but you
are rewarded with smooth and subtle
redcurrant, raspberry and cherry flavours,
to name a few. If you are a Pinot Noir fan,
put this on your list.
Cloudy Bay vineyards were only
established in 1985 in the Wairau
valley in the Marlborough region and
yet have rapidly grown their reputation
to be considered by some as the most
prestigious Sauvignon Blanc in the world!
Its trademark gooseberry flavours are
evident as are citrus and tropical fruits.
Finely balanced, packed with flavour and
not as austere as others, this is a fantastic
example of Sauvignon Blanc at its best. I
waited 10 years to try a bottle of Cloudy
Bay and I wasn’t disappointed. This is
certainly world class and is responsible
for the Brit’s love affair with New Zealand
Sauvignon Blanc. In a class of its own, it’s
time to impress your friends.
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