Product Knowledge PM the color Paper Chart 2018 | Page 2
the naturals the neutral
beiges the neutral
neutrals the natural
ashes
N NB NN
neutral beige
natural brown
gray/brown
the pearl
naturals the ashes NA PN A CB
green with brown natural with
blue/violet gray / blue beige with
blue/violet
P
VR
violet
violet / red
UT UTN ULTRA TONER
NATURAL BLONDE UTNB ULTRA TONER
NEUTRAL BLONDE UTA ULTRA TONER
ASH BLONDE UTP ULTRA TONER
PLATINUM BLONDE
HL HLN HIGHLIFT
NATURAL BLONDE HLNB HIGHLIFT
NEUTRAL BLONDE HLA HIGHLIFT
ASH BLONDE HLP HIGHLIFT
PLATINUM BLONDE
10 10N LIGHTEST
NATURAL BLONDE 10NB LIGHTEST
NEUTRAL BLONDE 10A LIGHTEST
ASH BLONDE
10CB
the warm
beiges the golds
OR WB G
orange / red beige with yellow / gold
the reds
the cools
CM
violet / red
with brown
RV
CC
RR
natural
red/violet
red / violet
R
red / red
red
RB WM
red with brown red / orange
with brown
RO
red / orange
WC
natural
orange/red
yellow/orange
10WB
LIGHTEST
COOL BLONDE
NEW
LIGHTEST
WARM BLONDE
NEW
9 9N VERY LIGHT
NATURAL BLONDE 9NB VERY LIGHT
NEUTRAL BLONDE 8 8N LIGHT
NATURAL BLONDE 8NB LIGHT
NEUTRAL BLONDE 7 7N NATURAL BLONDE 7NB NEUTRAL BLONDE 6 6N DARK
NATURAL BLONDE 6NB DARK
NEUTRAL BLONDE 6NN DARK NEUTRAL
NEUTRAL BLONDE
5 5N LIGHT
NATURAL BROWN 5NB LIGHT
NEUTRAL BROWN 5NN LIGHT NEUTRAL
NEUTRAL BROWN
4 4N NATURAL BROWN 4NN NEUTRAL NEUTRAL
BROWN
3 3N DARK
NATURAL BROWN 3NN DARK NEUTRAL
NEUTRAL BROWN
2 2N DARKEST
NATURAL BROWN 2NN DARKEST NEUTRAL
NEUTRAL BROWN
1 1N BLACK
7NA
5NA
3NA
NATURAL
ASH BLONDE
LIGHT NATURAL
ASH BROWN
9A VERY LIGHT
ASH BLONDE 9CB VERY LIGHT
COOL BLONDE
8PN LIGHT SMOKY
NATURAL BLONDE 8A LIGHT
ASH BLONDE 8CB LIGHT
COOL BLONDE
7PN SMOKY NATURAL
BLONDE 7A ASH BLONDE 7CB COOL BLONDE
6PN DARK SMOKY
NATURAL BLONDE 6A DARK
ASH BLONDE 6CB DARK
COOL BLONDE
5PN LIGHT SMOKY
NATURAL BROWN 5A LIGHT
ASH BROWN 5CB LIGHT
COOL BROWN
4A
DARK NATURAL
ASH BROWN
9P
VERY LIGHT
PLATINUM BLONDE
8RV
7P
8R
LIGHT RED
VIOLET BLONDE
PLATINUM
BLONDE
7CC COOL
COPPER BLONDE
8RO
LIGHT
RED BLONDE
7RB RED
NATURAL BLONDE
LIGHT RED
ORANGE BLONDE
8WC LIGHT WARM
COPPER BLONDE
7WC WARM
COPPER BLONDE
7OR
ORANGE RED
10G
PLUS SERIES
Maximum gray coverage
for over 50% gray hair
Warm natural
gray coverage
Cool natural
gray coverage
LIGHTEST
GOLD BLONDE
NEW
NEW
NEW
9G VERY LIGHT
GOLD BLONDE VERY LIGHT
CHOCOLATE BLONDE GRAY COVERAGE
VERY LIGHT NATURAL
BLONDE
8WB LIGHT
WARM BLONDE 8G LIGHT
GOLD BLONDE LIGHT CHOCOLATE
BLONDE GRAY COVERAGE
LIGHT NATURAL
BLONDE
7WB WARM BLONDE 7G GOLD BLONDE CHOCOLATE BLONDE GRAY COVERAGE
NATURAL BLONDE
6CM DARK COOL
MAHOGANY BLONDE 6RV DARK RED
VIOLET BLONDE 6CC DARK COOL
COPPER BLONDE 6RR RED RED 6R DARK
RED BLONDE 6RB DARK RED
NATURAL BLONDE 6WM DARK WARM
MAHOGANY BLONDE 6RO DARK RED
ORANGE BLONDE 6WC DARK WARM
COPPER BLONDE 6WB DARK
WARM BLONDE 6G DARK
GOLD BLONDE DARK CHOCOLATE
BLONDE GRAY COVERAGE
DARK NATURAL
BLONDE
5CC LIGHT COOL
COPPER BROWN 5RR RED RED 5R LIGHT
RED BROWN 5RB LIGHT RED
NATURAL BROWN 5WM LIGHT WARM
MAHOGANY BROWN 5RO LIGHT RED
ORANGE BROWN 5WC LIGHT WARM
COPPER BROWN 5WB LIGHT
WARM BROWN 5G LIGHT GOLD
BROWN LIGHT CHOCOLATE
BROWN GRAY COVERAGE
LIGHT NATURAL
BROWN
4RR RED RED 4R RED BROWN 4RB RED
NATURAL BROWN 4WM WARM MAHOGANY
BROWN 4G GOLD BROWN CHOCOLATE BROWN GRAY COVERAGE
NATURAL BROWN
5VR VIOLET RED 5CM LIGHT COOL
MAHOGANY BROWN 5RV LIGHT RED
VIOLET BROWN
ASH BROWN 4VR VIOLET RED 4CM COOL
MAHOGANY BROWN 4RV RED
VIOLET BROWN
3A DARK
ASH BROWN 3VR VIOLET RED 1A BLUE BLACK
GRAY COVERAGE
DARK NATURAL
BROWN
Technical Support: 877.610.5405 (within North America) • 1300.365.350 (within Australia) • 01.800.788.6878 (within Mexico)
Pigment Chart
Level Shade Name
Dominant Pigment
10 LIGHTEST
BLONDE PALE
YELLOW
9 VERY LIGHT
BLONDE YELLOW
8 LIGHT
BLONDE YELLOW/
ORANGE
7 BLONDE ORANGE
Neutralizing Base
Violet
FORMULATION STEPS
1. Determine the natural level/percentage of gray.
2. Identify the target level.
3. Determine the dominant pigment at the target level.
4. Refer to the color map to determine how to neutralize
or intensify the pigment.
DARK
BLONDE RED/
ORANGE
5 LIGHT
BROWN RED
4 BROWN RED/
VIOLET
3 DARK
BROWN VIOLET
2 DARKEST
BROWN BLUE/
VIOLET
1 BLACK BLUE
% of Gray
Violet 25% - 50% 1:3 – 1:2 (With selected Plus series shade)
Blue/Violet 50% - 75% 1:2 – 1:1 (With selected Plus series shade)
75% - 100% 1:1 – 2:1 (With selected Plus series shade)
Blue
6
GRAY COVERAGE
Blue/Green
Green
The mixing ratios above are based on parts.
For example, 1:3 = 1 part CH+ and 3 parts R.
The N+ and CH+ Series’ have been formulated
for maximum coverage.
Yellow/Green
RE-PIGMENTATION FORMULATION STEPS
When depositing more than 2 levels on previously lightened or
processed/damaged hair, re-pigmentation is recommended. Before
you begin, refer to the Pre-Treatment Chart to identify specific
products for processed or damaged hair.
1. Identify the target level of desired end result.
2. Select the proper target level re-pigmentation formula below.
3. Mix the re-pigmentation formula with equal parts 10 volume Developer
and apply to damp hair.
4. Process for a minimum of 10 minutes.
5. Mix and apply the target formula directly over the re-pigmentation formula.
If the target color is cool or neutral, wipe off the re-pigmentation formula.
6. Process for an additional 35 minutes.
RE-PIGMENTATION FORMULAS
TARGET LEVEL
FORMULATING WITH PAUL MITCHELL ® THE COLOR MAP
Use Paul Mitchell the color Map and the tonal chart below to
determine what tonal series to use to neutralize or intensify.
G
WB
NN
CC
RV
N
NN
CH+
CM
VR
PN
P
NB
NB
Always mix Paul Mitchell ® the color
levels 1-10 and the Ultra
Toners with Cream or Clear
Developer in equal parts (1:1 ratio).
cool natural gray coverage
CH + warm natural gray
coverage
NN gray/brown
N natural brown
NB neutral beige
NA green with brown
PN natural with blue/violet
1 : 1
8
7
6
5
4
2 parts 10G and 1 part 8RO with 10 volume Developer
Equal parts 10G and 8RO with 10 volume Developer
8RO with 10 volume Developer
1 : 2
1 : 1
FOR MAXIMUM LIFT
Mix the Highlift Series with Cream Developer
only (1:2 ratio) FOR A MORE TONED END RESULT
Mix the Highlift Series with Cream
Developer only (1:1 ratio)
Virgin Application
1. Section hair into four quadrants.
2. Apply color 1/2" from the scalp to
the point where the ends show
damage or porosity.
3. Process for 20 minutes.
4. Remix and apply color to the root area and
then to the ends.
5. Process for an additional 45 minutes. Retouch Application
1. Section hair into four quadrants.
2. Apply color to regrowth only.
3. Process for 45 minutes.
4. To refresh faded ends, color may
be worked through for the last
5-10 minutes.
Equal parts 6RO and 8R with 10 volume Developer
Equal parts 6R and 6RO with 10 volume Developer
NA
N +
MIXING
HIGHLIFT SERIES MIXING AND APPLICATION
CB
Tonal Result Guidelines
To neutralize
Go across the color map and choose the tone that is
opposite the dominant pigment tone at the target level.
To intensify
Choose tones that are near or the same as the dominant
pigment tone at the target level.
CB beige with blue/violet
CM violet/red with brown
RB red with brown
WM red/orange with brown
WB beige with yellow/orange
A gray/blue
P violet
VR violet/red
RV red/violet
CC natural red/violet
RR red/red
R
red
RO red/orange
WC natural orange/red
OR orange/red
G yellow/gold
PROCESSING
APPLICATION
Virgin application going lighter
1. Section the hair into 4 quadrants.
2. Apply color 1/2" from the scalp to the
point where the ends show damage
or porosity.
3. Process for 10 minutes.
4. Remix and apply color to the root area
and then to the ends.
5. Process for 35 minutes for
permanent results.
Virgin application same level or darker
1. Section the hair into 4 quadrants.
2. Apply the color from scalp to ends.*
3. Process for 35 minutes for
permanent results.
USES
*If extreme porosity is present, pre-treatment is
recommended (see Pre-Treatment Chart). Color
balancing is recommended prior to the first
application of Paul Mitchell the color (see
Color Balancing).
Retouch application steps
1. Apply the chosen formula to new growth.
2. Refresh the mid-shaft and ends with
the chosen formula of Paul Mitchell
the color, The Demi, or PM SHINES ®
and process appropriately.
MIXING AND PROCESSING
TIMING
35 minutes
PERMANENT
35 minutes
35 minutes
HIGHLIFTS
45 minutes
45 minutes
DEMI-PERMANENT
LONGEVITY 4-6 WEEKS 20 minutes
SEMI-PERMANENT
LONGEVITY UP TO 3 WEEKS 10 minutes
ULTRA TONERS 10-20 minutes