Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2017 | Page 34

Ethnic Care
Hervé Geoffroy and Vijay Badur
More effective than
market references
The lightening activity of Sepiwhite
MSH has been proven in the following
LOCALLY RELEVANT
GLOBAL INNOVATION
methodologies: reconstructed pigmented
epidermis phototype V (ex vivo) and IN FEBRUARY, CJP Chemicals welcomed Hervé melanocytes cells cultures (in vitro). Geoffroy, Seppic’s beauty care business unit sales MSH was fi rst developed 10 years
In comparison to the most common
SepiWhite
director EMEA zone, and Vijay Badur, Seppic’s ago to address the needs of Asian skin Types 3 and
lightening active ingredients used on beauty care business unit zone manager MEA, 4. To increase its application, the company recently
the market, such as arbutine, kojic acid, to South Africa. Pharmaceutical tested the active on Types 4 to 6 in Mauritius.
VCPMG and hydroquinone, the effi cacy Review spoke to Geoffroy and Badur about the of Sepiwhite MSH has been proven on B16 company’s move to gain locally relevant data for this active ingredient acts fast, meeting African
melanocytes cultured under three types SepiWhite MSH. consumers’ immediate needs for even tone skin.
of conditions. These include:
1. spontaneous lightening action
on melanocytes
2. lightening action on melanocytes
cultivated with α-MSH
3. lightening action on melanocytes
Cosmetic
‘Africa is a growing market for Seppic,’ says
With proven effi cacy on Ethnic skin, Badur says
By delivering verifi ed claims and providing value
Geoffroy. ‘Through our understanding of local through the application laboratory located at CJP
needs and from watching global trends, we realise Chemicals head offi ce in Johannesburg, Seppic
customers’ challenges in South Africa and want is positioning itself as a key partner in developing
to address them with formulations that meet cosmetics for African markets. The company is an
consumers’ needs.’ international specialist in skin and beauty care.
following UVB irradiation.
In these three types of tests, the lightening
The evaluation criteria was based on
activity was determined by measuring Sepiwhite MSH were evaluated over melanin content. The results are shown 84 days. Results showed lighter areas the following Chromameter parameters:
in Graph 1, underlining that Sepiwhite of hyper pigmentation (>80 percent) L; a; b; ITA at DO; D7; D14; and D21. The
MSH is more effi cient than other market after 56 and 84 days. Signifi cantly results are revealed in Table 1.
leading lightening ingredients, without lightened skin was experienced among any toxic effect. 66 percent of the volunteers, while a is a super-effective molecule. Through
According to Seppic, Sepiwhite MSH
reduction of melanin pigments located a novel and demonstrated mode of
Quadruple in vivo tests in corneocytes (D-Squame) was action, the active ingredient lights up the
To demonstrate the universal benefi ts of also noted. complexion while limiting pigmentation-
Sepiwhite MSH, the active ingredient has
The most recent in vivo test for
related concerns. After treatment, the
been tested on three different skin types Sepiwhite MSH has been conducted on complexion appears more uniform and
with various positive results. black African and Indian skin types IV age spots disappear. Long-term results
and V. The panel consisted of 22 female (56 days) and a faster lightening process
with UV tanned skin, using a cream volunteers (11 Indians and 11 Africans) have also been underlined when the
with two percent Sepiwhite MSH and with an average age of 34 years old. active is used in combination with
evaluated over 49 days, results showed an The formulation tested was also based an AHA. •
increase in the individual typology angle/ on two percent Sepiwhite MSH in lightening effect among 57 percent of combination with three percent lactic the volunteers. acid and two percent salicylic acid (pH
On a panel of 14 Caucasian volunteers
On 30 Asian volunteers with age spots,
the effects of a cream with two percent
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| MAY 2017 | P C Review
4). The product was applied twice daily
on the forearm over a period of 21 days.
CJP Chemicals –
www.cjpchemicals.co.za
Seppic – www.seppic.com