Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2017 | Page 33

Ethnic Care
Sepiwhite MSH has previously been
consumers want healthy glowing skin.
role in binding to MC1R receptors,
Asians look for a transparent tone tested on Caucasian and Asian skins. In while Ethnic consumers want to correct an effort to meet the needs of the African pigmentation disorders and dark spots. market, through extensive testing, Seppic involvement of α-MSH in the regulation
presents new data specifi c to Ethnic skin of melanogenesis, Seppic’s R&D team
types IV and V. developed Sepiwhite MSH – an antagonist of
Black African or dark skins, in reaction
to biological and external stresses such as
inhibiting melanogenesis.
In view of these fi ndings regarding the
α-MSH – which inhibits all of the key steps in
acne, eczema, sun exposure, mosquito bites
Driven by in depth research the α-MSH-induced melanogenic cascade.
Through its major skin lightening The steps leading to melanin synthesis,
is pronounced, particularly in reducing research programme, Seppic has inhibited by Sepiwhite MSH, include:
hyper-pigmentation without compromising focused its attention on the effects of • an affi nity for the MC1R
the skin. In response to this need, the a precursor molecule and major factor cosmetics industry has worked tirelessly to in the regulation of skin pigmentation • an inhibition of adenylate cyclase
develop products combining effi cacy and melanotropin, called alpha-MSH. This • the reduction of intracellular cAMP content
skin compatibility. molecule links the MCR-1 receptor, • an inhibition of protein kinase A
activates the melagonesis cascade • an inhibition of melanogenesis.
a molecule derived from natural and controls tyrosinase activity, melanin With its lipoamino acid form, as a biovector
resources, which is effective on all skin (eumalanin and phaeomelanin) synthesis of phenylalanine, Sepiwhite MSH has
types and perfectly well tolerated. and melanosome transfer. remarkable skin bioaffi nity. It is well-tolerated
and scars, generally produce melanin.
The challenge to unify and clarify skin
One example is Sepiwhite MSH,
This active ingredient is recognised
melanotropin receptor
at the suggested inclusion levels.
These MC1R receptors, activated by
among international brand owners alpha-MSH and its analogues, are inhibited and manufacturers for its lightening by natural antagonists present in the skin, format, which is easy to formulate with and
performance and is used in many called agouti-related proteins (AGRPs). has a fully defi ned structure. End products
formulations for brightening and These proteins have a phenylalanine in containing Sepiwhite MSH are stable, and
lightening products.
Lightening
a key position, which plays an essential
Action on Melanocytes
Graph 1: The effi cacy of various market leading lightening ingredients in
decreasing melanogenesis
Basal
α-MSH
induced
The active is sold in a white powder
either white or colourless.
Table 1: In vivo test results for Sepiwhite MSH on black African and Indian skin
types IV and V
Ÿ Lighter age spots
(ì ITA°)
Ÿ ì Skin luminosity
(L*)
UVB
induced
% increase of ITA°/DO
300
SEPIWHITE MSH
% increase of L*/DO
3
ARBUTIN
2
200
+ 2 %**
J
1
KOJIC ACID
MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE
HYDROQUINONE
0
**p<0.001
+ 263 %*
+ 3 %**
+ 195 %*
+ 2 %**
J
100% 100%
D7 D14
+ 150 %*
J
100%
100
0
D21
J
100%
D7
J
100%
D14
J
100%
D21
Legend:
L*: skin luminosity
ITA°: individual typology angle / ì lightening effect
a* : erythema parameter
J: volunteers with positive effects
SUPPLIER OF
SPECIALISED
INGREDIENTS FOR
ETHNIC CARE
PRODUCTS.
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
33