Ethnic Care
The edge of innovation
Ethnic beauty is one of the most promising vectors of growth in the expanding personal care market . While this market is not new , in recent years the demand for multicultural products has grown thanks to the rising middle class in emerging markets . By Martina Heldermann
Edge control products are also very popular for taming new hair and keeping braids , twists and cornrows in shape
Type 5 Ethnic hair towel-dried and left to air-dry
The biggest challenge in Ethnic beauty care is research and development . Catering to multicultural consumers requires product development for a much broader range of hair and skin types . Ethnic skin is better adapted to the sun , but when exposed to a cold , dry climate it loses its protective hydrolipidic fi lm and natural radiance . The skin type requires special care , including moisturisation , sebum control , and smoothing products .
Ethnic hair , be it relaxed , braided or a natural afro , needs special care too . This hair type can become fragile and break easily . The trend towards more natural African hair styles has sparked a new direction in product development , with claims ranging from anti-frizz and anti-shrinkage to edge control .
Formulation design for darker skins can also be challenging . Some foundations can result in a gre yish skin fi nish while an uneven skin tone can make it diffi cult to fi nd one foundation that matches multicultural consumers ’ needs .
A market with unique demands
The rise in demand for customised products for Ethnic consumers is seeing an expansion of product
Edge cream Low-poo Untreated
offerings on the market and of course intensifi ed competition among brands . This creates increased marketing activity usually resulting in enhanced consumption . For example , in North America the number of Ethnic personal care products launched is growing from year to year . There is also signifi cant expansion in Africa ’ s hair care market , with conditioners growing by 11 percent encouraged by enhanced internet connectivity and the demands of a rising middle class .
But what products are best suited to the Ethnic consumers ’ needs , and what is trending in multicultural beauty ? Anti-ageing products have never been that popular as this concern is more dominant among Caucasian consumers . However , products promising to moisturise , brighten and provide an even skin tone are very popular . Multibenefi cial alphabet creams that cover and correct , brightening and blurring creams or oil controlling ones are all commonly used by Ethnic consumers . More mainstream brands are also entering this market with naturally positioned products .
The lack of diversity in makeup shades has been the cosmetics industry ’ s biggest fl aw . But now beauty giants are taking a step in the right direction by launching products in a much broader colour range . These include trendy liquid metal shades such as warm silver , copper and bronze , which fl atter especially darker skin types . Also popular are orange and spicy nuances such as cinnamon , nutmeg and curry .
The movement in favour of natural hair is supported by new research , which shows relaxers are on a decline , while the use of shampoos , conditioners and styling agents is increasing . Lowpoo cleansers , which do not contain surfactants ( or ‘ poo ’), offer mild cleansing with conditioning and care benefi ts . Styling aids have received a signifi cant boost in the past few years , particularly those with essential properties such as anti-frizz , curl defi nition and anti-shrinkage . Edge control products are also very popular for taming new hair ( the ‘ fl y- aways ’ at the hairline ) and keeping braids , twists and cornrows in shape .
Multifunctional wax ingredient
Myrica Fruit Wax fi ts perfectly into the Ethnic beauty concept as it boosts the performance of low-poo products and gives edge control formulations the ideal hardness . When used in oil control formulations , it supports a dry and velvet feel and a silky matte effect .
It is a unique wax because it has no double bonds ; it is a naturally ‘ hydrogenated ’ oil with a low melting point of 45 to 55 ° C yet has extraordinary hardness . This combination of properties gives Myrica Fruit Wax exceptionally good spreadability in cosmetics formulations . It reduces the stickiness of emulsions and cream gels , gives hair styling products excellent holding properties , and when
24 | MAY 2017 | P C Review