Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review May 2017 | Page 17

Anti-ageing
Figure 3: Treatment with SyriCalm CLR (PC) reduces taurine effl ux and
strengthens the ability of skin’s cells to deal with hyperosmotic stress
Therefore, in a slower Radiolabeled taurine was supplemented to
process, osmolytes, of the skin model during t0 to 48 hours. From
which taurine is the best t50 to t96 hours, an effl ux of the radiolabeled
described in literature, taurine took place. This was analysed at 72
are pumped into the and 96 hours (see Figure 3).
keratinocytes, while the
The different treatments with the natural
excess electrolytes are active showed moderate to signifi cant
drained. Taurine can be results in helping to reduce the taurine
considered a ‘natural effl ux. At 72 hours, the control skin models,
moisturising factor’ for which were not treated with the active, had
the keratinocytes in the lost about 70 percent of all taurine, and at
SG. Its main goal is to 96 hours, more than 80 percent of all taurine
bind water and manage was lost by the hyperosmotically stressed
cellular volume. cells in the 3D epidermal skin model.
Despite the highly
These results strongly indicate that, in
intriguing way in this experiment, the cells had entered the
which the cells deal previously described vicious cycle. At 72
with hyperosmotic hours, both the accumulated results of the
stress, their strategy fi rst and second application, as well as the
has one essential fl aw: single third application, reduced the effl ux
taurine is lost by the signifi cantly to about 50 percent. Together,
keratinocytes in the SG, all three treatments resulted in a reduction
re-equilibrate the electrolyte concentrations which starts a vicious cycle of further loss of taurine effl ux to less than 30 percent. After
in the intra- and extracellular compartment. of cellular volume and barrier repair and 96 hours, the third treatment alone and
When this happens, they pump out cellular maintenance malfunction. The reduction all three treatments together still showed
water resulting in a decrease in cellular of taurine effl ux is an important strategy in signifi cant effects (see Figure 4).
volume. Penetration of electrolytes into supporting skin’s functionality to perform its the skin is a phenomenon common in skin physical barrier function.
exposed to sweat, sea water and urine.
These results confi rm that SyriCalm CLR
(PC) addresses hyperosmotic stress in skin
care, helping cells in the SG to maintain
Reduction of the effl ux of taurine cellular volume and functioning. The active
The active ingredient SyriCalm CLR (PC) ingredient, which is available in South
Interestingly, keratinocytes have a strategy (INCI: Water, Phragmite Communis Extract, Africa from IMCD, plays a benefi cial role in
to deal with hyperosmotic stress. The loss Poria Cocos Extract) signifi cantly helps in maintaining and repairing skin’s physical
of cellular volume is almost immediately reducing the effl ux of taurine, as measured barrier properties. This was also confi rmed
compensated by electrolytes being on epidermal skin models undergoing in vivo, where UV-induced barrier disruption,
pumped into the intracellular space. As hyperosmotic stress. An in vitro 3D measured as an increase in TEWL, showed
these electrolytes attract water, the water epidermal skin model was hyperosmotically accelerated repair with a formulation
concentration in the keratinocytes and stressed for a total of 96 hours. It was containing the active. ·
the cellular volume are re-established. treated with three different applications of While this is a quick process, the high the active ingredient: concentration of electrolytes in the • fi rst application at 0 to 48 hours intracellular space has a negative effect • second at 24 to 48 hours on the keratinocytes’ proper functioning. • third at 48 to 50 hours.
Dealing with hyperosmotic stress
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium –
www.clr-berlin.com
IMCD South Africa –
www.imcdgroup.com
P C Review | MAY 2017 |
17