The Quotidian Morphs into
WRITTEN BY
Kitty Garner
W
When Catalonian chef Ferran Adrià,
the proprietor of the Costa Brava
restaurant elBulli, was selected for
inclusion in Documenta (the prestigious art exhibition which pops up in
Kassel, Germany every five years), the
Michelin star-laden chef was essentially lauded as a contemporary artist
using precious locavore veggies, all
manner of meats, sundry offal, mysterious edible foams and ribbons, liquid
nitrogen and immersion baths as his
medium. Although some would argue
that Adria, the acclaimed master of
molecular gastronomy, is more of a
deconstructivist mad scientist than an
artist, and that his restaurant was more
of a gastronomic laboratory than a cult
foodie museum, the Chef-cum-Artist
concept has nonetheless blossomed
since Adria was lionized in Kassel.
Since then no metropolitan venue has
seen more cream of culinary genius
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The New
rise to the top than seemingly sleepy
and certainly charming Charleston,
South Carolina. It turns out that this
genial Southern town is a charmer
with gravitas, and certainly anything
but somnolent.
Truly, Charleston’s cobbled streets are
abuzz, and not just due to the lavender
lattes being served up hand-over-fist
at Black Tap coffee over on Beaufain
Street. Even The Guardian in London
and Le Monde in Paris have taken note
of Charleston boîtes, and Mike Latta
(FIG and The Ordinary), Josh Keeler
(Two Boroughs Larder), Jere ZXZ