Parker County Today July 2018 | Page 103

our taste : RESTAURANT REVIEW

Zeno ’ s on the Square : It was worth the wait

BY THE WEATHERFORD FOODIE

It was with great anticipation that

I waited ( along with most of the population of Parker County ) for Zeno ’ s on the Square to open in Weatherford .
This is the second restaurant for the Italian Russo family , first came Momma Monica ’ s , and this is her brother Zeno .
My dinner companion and I arrived at Zeno ’ s at about 5:30 on a Monday evening , no reservation required .
After entering the glass doors , my companion and I were led to one of the numerous tables and greeted by our server , Florence , who welcomed us to Zeno ’ s and took our drink order .
I looked around the restaurant and enjoyed the late summer forest green walls , light-colored wooden floors , and copper drop lighting that gave the tall room a more intimate appeal . The excellent view of the historic Parker County Courthouse from the many eastern- and northern-facing windows adds to the atmosphere .
Inside there is a large window into the kitchen so you can see the creations as they ’ re made .
Our server brought a complimentary amuse-bouche , just to entice the taste buds , of a melon cube topped with a fresh cherry with a balsamic reduction . The single bite was amazing and definitely accomplished the desired goal .
We began our meal with an appetizer , Crocchette di Gamberi ( shrimp fritters ) Shrimp with béchamel sauce and garlic mayonnaise . Six fritters had the look of hush puppies , but that ’ s where the comparison ended . Inside was a very light and flavorpacked shrimp and béchamel filling that tasted like a cloud . My companion and I looked over the one-page menu and I decided on La numero

Fine Italian Dining in a Stunning Setting

4 ( Spaghetti Carbonara the chef ’ s way ) Fresh Pasta spaghetti , pancetta , onion , white wine , egg , and Pecorino Romano cheese .
My companion chose Salmone in panatura di pistachio ( Salmon with Pistachio ), mushroom cap and potato , which soon arrived .
Once you have had fresh-made pasta you can tell the difference ; all pasta is good , but freshly made pasta is so much better , and this pasta is outstanding .
The pasta is made daily at Momma Monica ’ s for the time being and delivered to Zeno ’ s . The pasta was cooked perfectly al-dente and the sauce did not drown the noodles , but clung to the pasta in the most delightful way .
The salmon was cooked perfectly , flaky and moist , covered with pistachio that did not overpower the flavor of the fish , but rather served to enhance it . Served with a beautifully braised piece of fennel and the mushroom cap cut-with-your-fork tender , it made for a lovely presentation and tasted great . The portion size is appropriate and not too large or small , the prices are in line with what you get and they brought the tastiest complementary bread throughout the meal . We each had a dessert ; I had Tiramisu alle pesche ( peach tiramisu ) Mascarpone cream , lady finger sand peaches along with a dessert wine . My companion had Pavlova alla Frutta ( chef ’ s meringue ) consisting of baked meringue , Italian cream , seasonal fruit ( strawberries and blueberries ), and both were excellent .
The prevailing conversation was to come here just for dessert and coffee , but to also come back for everything as often as possible .
Zeno on the Square is located at 102 Houston Ave ., Weatherford 76086 , in the new Houston Place building at the southwest corner of the square . They are open six days per week , Wednesday through Monday 5 p . m . until 10 p . m ., closed on Tuesday .
Call them at 817-757-7552 or find them at www . zenosonthesquare . com or on Facebook at Zeno on the square .
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JULY 2018 PARKER COUNTY TODAY