Paesaggio Urbano 03.2013 | Page 12

CORBELLINI carvings inspired by climbers, loggers or animals, preceded by similar subjects reproduced serially in metal or concrete. A series of false layers, yet reversible, accompanied by more definitive interventions on architecture, which started in the eighties and radically transformed the village’s image and substance. Scrolling through old photos and postcards, and comparing them to the current situation, it is easy to see how the film of the architectural evolution of Sappada underwent a sudden acceleration and a substantial deviation just thirty years ago. Of course, the impact of mass tourism tended to introduce some decorative habit also before this period, but they were still basically honest design procedures with discernible constructive logics and aesthetic goals: the ornament is fairly applied, abstract, if it mimics the structural functions it does so in a quite plausible way and, in general, it shows some specific reasons, such as the identification of masses, their visual reduction or magnification, the connection of surfaces, the management of proportions... Practices that, at a certain moment, are quickly replaced by diametrically opposite strategies. 10 paesaggio urbano 3.2013 A first phenomenon, common to other mountain venues, is the superficial imitation of traditional techniques, but devoid of any constructive, material and functional logic and reproduced for decorative purposes only. Buildings made of concrete, masonry or, more recently, prefabricated wood panels are cladded poorly cloning the blockbau: the “logs”, for instance, don’t correspond to their supposed heads which emerge beyond the angular joints, revealing that they are made of thin boards coating the insulation layers. In addition, the antiqued finish doesn’t match the black Carbolineum used to protect the wood of the original houses. Similar ill-formed outcomes concern the imitations of stone bases (abnormal thicknesses, unlikely transitions with the soil, use of fake stones ...), the cantilevered balconies (the wooden beams which should support them are actually hung below the concrete or X-Lam slabs) and the relationships between parts in general, which have lost any connection with the tectonic organizations taken as example. The result is a widespread practice of disguise (4) which finds a cultural equivalent in the most promoted, and successful among the tourists, event of Sappada’s tradition: the famous Carnival. That might sound even appropriate in a vacation resort, precisely because it offers visitors a condition of suspension from their daily lives. But the fact that this constant masquerade comes from the intention to respect traditions and existing structures, reinforced moreover by legal constraints of landscape protection, makes this outcome less understandable. Another, more unusual manifestation of this trend is the import in Sappada of techniques, styles, details and different solutions coming from the Bavarian Alps’ architecture: a paradoxical consequence of the climate of identity revival arisen between the seventies and the eighties (5). The reasons why, among the many possible origins of the local community (the evangelization and Germanization of Slovenian peoples or the legendary migration from Austrian Villgraten (6)), was the most distant area of linguistic similarity chosen remains rather obscure, as well as it is incomprehensible the logic according to which a community would restate its roots overlapping decorative layers taken from a branch supposedly belonging to the same trunk but evolved on its own in an independent direction: as if today Paduans imitate the current Turkish architecture to remember Antenor, Trojan hero and mythical founder of the city ... Anyway, suddenly the color palette welcomed new pastel shades and ever seen graffito finishes with intricate swirls started to appear, usually around doors and windows, together with religious, heraldic or symbolic inscriptions, family and trade insignia, rampant arches without a static function and thickly ornamented, imitations of timber framing structures, spiral columns, bay windows and strange little bell towers-wind vanes on top of roofs ... A decorative wave which overwhelmed both new constructions and renovations, accommodation structures as well as the homes of residents, touching also some of the old log houses. In order to definitively establish its unexpected collective recognition and to reaffirm a binding function of direction, the Neo-Bavarian style ended up covering the town hall. Applied separately or combined together, these design methods invested also more than decent examples of Alpine Modernism, whose articulation of volumes and overall proportions remain irreducible to the vernacular crust that now wraps them. Even the “Casa ai Monti”, a big hotel of the sixties (7), has been awfully reduced to that “local typology” my architect eyes were not able to recognize. Although this formula is inherently contradictory, especially when referring to the type (which would mean some evolutionary link with pre-existing stuff) and in connection with this specific place (betrayed by the translation of another tradition), it photographs, as we have seen, a phenomenology with precise modes of action which has quickly reached a critical mass. The immediate and general sharing of picturesque counterfeiting by actors and users of the environmental transformation and the parallel marginalization of the disciplinary gaze show uncanny similarities with the historicist masks of Las Vegas’ casinos. Unfortunately, unlike Caesar’s Palace, of which everything can be said except it aspires to some authenticity, the claim of continuity is mercilessly unmasked by close comparisons with the originals (8). Therefore it is difficult to act as the Venturis and make Sappada an experimental lab of